Aftermarket Stereo, etc... info here...

[Crazy Lou]

:knockout: So being that I searched and searched this forum for the answers I needed to install an aftermarket stereo... and that it took at least 20+ different posts to collate the information I required.... I have decided to give back a little and let this post serve as reference, as I am sure it will. All additional posts from fellow members are as always, welcome. But I request that those posts be as informative as possible, with limited discussion between members... Thanks to all that may contribute:

Firstly, I own an SRT8, with option packages I & II. My SRT did not come with the Navigation radio... and so, this post may be most useful to those that do not have a nav system.

My experience involved the double din Kenwood DDX-6019. The install was fairly straightforward for me, although I have done many installs on many brands... All of the digital components though, ie. PAC harnesses, CAN bus, was a first.

If you wish to bypass the stock amp and speakers, this post is not directed towards you, but I hope will contain some useful information.

I replaced the stock head unit with the DDx-6019 and kept the factory speakers and amp. And for those with EVIC and a desire to keep the factory amp, speakers, and steering wheel controls... this post will be most useful.

You will need PAC harness C2R-CHY which is the CAN bus interface which would control the stock amp, etc... If you have steering wheel controls, you'll need PAC harness SWI-CAN, along with a third PAC harness for you specific stereo brand. Those are SWI-X, SWI-ALP, SWI-PS, or SWI-ECL. See below for PAC’s web address to determine which harness you need.

The factory amp is a two-channel unit, and the fader is controlled by data sending from the stock head unit. When you install an aftermarket head unit and keep the stock amp, using C2R-CHY, the front speaker outputs of the new head unit are connected to the rear speaker inputs of the car via the harness, which sets the fade to center by default. So unless you bypass the stock amp, you will not be able to fade between front and rear. Not a huge issue, but perhaps a personal issue for some.

My SRT did not come with the stock NAV head unit. I had the stock six disc RAK unit... I had to order a Nav bezel in order to have room for the double din head unit. I ordered the NAV bezel from Makeitmopar.com - about $65.00. As with the SRT8 I had to remove the esp/hazard buttons and the climate controls from my non-nav bezel, and install them on the new bezel, which was easy. Simply some very small hex screws. For those without ESP installed, I am referring to the switch strip with your hazard button.

I also had to get a mounting kit that closes the gap between the Nav bezel and the actual screen. I bought the kit by Metra - part # 99-6510 (metraonline.com).

You're also going to need an antenna adapter for Chrysler.... I went to my local Best Buy... Circuit City, car stereo shop... who said they didn't have the correct part for the Charger... So I had them give me one for a 300 - which is the exact same part, fyi…

The three harnesses work together. C2R-CHY has plugs that allow you to connect the other harnesses with a simple harness plug rather than hardwiring them for power, etc... SWI-CAN plugs into C2R-CHY, and then SWI-ALP plugs into SWI-CAN. Make sure you read the instruction for all three harnesses before you start splicing. The instruction for the harnesses are written as if you'd be using only one harness... So there's some stuff that you will not need. Preparation will help to avoid issues later in the installation.

The only frustrating part that I encountered was programming SWI-ALP, which reads the steering wheel buttons and send the correct signal to the aftermarket head unit. The SWI-APL instructions come with a chart that tells you the programming code you need to start with. The chart I received did not list the charger, so I used the code for the magnum, which was "8". I couldn't get the unit to learn the steering wheel buttons... so I went to PAC's website and discovered that I needed to use program "2"... Which worked as it described in the instructions. Check their instructions on their website to make sure before you start... www.pac-audio.com I think that this program information may vary as revised software “versions” become available.

Along with the ddx-6019 I added the Kenwood navigation unit, Sirius, and the blue tooth unit. I love the Nav unit -- really easy to use and very accurate... I just put the GPS antenna in the rear deck inside the car... The Blue tooth units is worth every penny also... allows me to make and receive hands free calls without ever taking my phone out of my pocket. Highly recommended...

Other advice I have is to make sure that you crimp all wiring very securely. Once you get the Kenwood harness connected to the PAC harnesses you basically have a "rats-nest" of wiring... all of which will have to get smashed into the dash, while still having room for your new deck and the ashtray... So be careful... you don't want to get everything installed and covered up only to discover that a wire came loose...

I hope that this information may be useful for my fellow members....

Feel free to shoot me any other questions you have along the way -- and to anyone else you know that needs stereo/AMP/wiring advise!

Here's a link to a photo of the ddx-6019 on a thread by another one of our members... this is exactly what mine looks like - http://www.chargerforums.com/forums/...6&d=1161555153

Best to all –

:knockout: Lou :knockout:

[300SRT8U]

:knockout: So being that I searched and searched this forum for the answers I needed to install an aftermarket stereo... and that it took at least 20+ different posts to collate the information I required.... I have decided to give back a little and let this post serve as reference, as I am sure it will. All additional posts from fellow members are as always, welcome. But I request that those posts be as informative as possible, with limited discussion between members... Thanks to all that may contribute:

Firstly, I own an SRT8, with option packages I & II. My SRT did not come with the Navigation radio... and so, this post may be most useful to those that do not have a nav system.

My experience involved the double din Kenwood DDX-6019. The install was fairly straightforward for me, although I have done many installs on many brands... All of the digital components though, ie. PAC harnesses, CAN bus, was a first.

If you wish to bypass the stock amp and speakers, this post is not directed towards you, but I hope will contain some useful information.

I replaced the stock head unit with the DDx-6019 and kept the factory speakers and amp. And for those with EVIC and a desire to keep the factory amp, speakers, and steering wheel controls... this post will be most useful.

You will need PAC harness C2R-CHY which is the CAN bus interface which would control the stock amp, etc... If you have steering wheel controls, you'll need PAC harness SWI-CAN, along with a third PAC harness for you specific stereo brand. Those are SWI-X, SWI-ALP, SWI-PS, or SWI-ECL. See below for PAC’s web address to determine which harness you need.

The factory amp is a two-channel unit, and the fader is controlled by data sending from the stock head unit. When you install an aftermarket head unit and keep the stock amp, using C2R-CHY, the front speaker outputs of the new head unit are connected to the rear speaker inputs of the car via the harness, which sets the fade to center by default. So unless you bypass the stock amp, you will not be able to fade between front and rear. Not a huge issue, but perhaps a personal issue for some.

My SRT did not come with the stock NAV head unit. I had the stock six disc RAK unit... I had to order a Nav bezel in order to have room for the double din head unit. I ordered the NAV bezel from Makeitmopar.com - about $65.00. As with the SRT8 I had to remove the esp/hazard buttons and the climate controls from my non-nav bezel, and install them on the new bezel, which was easy. Simply some very small hex screws. For those without ESP installed, I am referring to the switch strip with your hazard button.

I also had to get a mounting kit that closes the gap between the Nav bezel and the actual screen. I bought the kit by Metra - part # 99-6510 (metraonline.com).

You're also going to need an antenna adapter for Chrysler.... I went to my local Best Buy... Circuit City, car stereo shop... who said they didn't have the correct part for the Charger... So I had them give me one for a 300 - which is the exact same part, fyi…

The three harnesses work together. C2R-CHY has plugs that allow you to connect the other harnesses with a simple harness plug rather than hardwiring them for power, etc... SWI-CAN plugs into C2R-CHY, and then SWI-ALP plugs into SWI-CAN. Make sure you read the instruction for all three harnesses before you start splicing. The instruction for the harnesses are written as if you'd be using only one harness... So there's some stuff that you will not need. Preparation will help to avoid issues later in the installation.

The only frustrating part that I encountered was programming SWI-ALP, which reads the steering wheel buttons and send the correct signal to the aftermarket head unit. The SWI-APL instructions come with a chart that tells you the programming code you need to start with. The chart I received did not list the charger, so I used the code for the magnum, which was "8". I couldn't get the unit to learn the steering wheel buttons... so I went to PAC's website and discovered that I needed to use program "2"... Which worked as it described in the instructions. Check their instructions on their website to make sure before you start... www.pac-audio.com I think that this program information may vary as revised software “versions” become available.

Along with the ddx-6019 I added the Kenwood navigation unit, Sirius, and the blue tooth unit. I love the Nav unit -- really easy to use and very accurate... I just put the GPS antenna in the rear deck inside the car... The Blue tooth units is worth every penny also... allows me to make and receive hands free calls without ever taking my phone out of my pocket. Highly recommended...

Other advice I have is to make sure that you crimp all wiring very securely. Once you get the Kenwood harness connected to the PAC harnesses you basically have a "rats-nest" of wiring... all of which will have to get smashed into the dash, while still having room for your new deck and the ashtray... So be careful... you don't want to get everything installed and covered up only to discover that a wire came loose...

I hope that this information may be useful for my fellow members....

Feel free to shoot me any other questions you have along the way -- and to anyone else you know that needs stereo/AMP/wiring advise!

Here's a link to a photo of the ddx-6019 on a thread by another one of our members... this is exactly what mine looks like - http://www.chargerforums.com/forums/...6&d=1161555153

Best to all –

:knockout: Lou :knockout:


Hey lou, great info, thanks a bunch. :)

even thoughi DO have the Nav set-up ...

what could tell me about replaceing the amp? I have the kicker system set-up

[Crazy Lou]

Hey lou, great info, thanks a bunch. :)

even thoughi DO have the Nav set-up ...

what could tell me about replaceing the amp? I have the kicker system set-up

So you're asking how to go about keeping the factory NAV head unit and adding an aftermaket amp? Are you wanting to run the high end door speakers, etc..? or adding a sub? Let me know before I go into the whole thing... Just want to make sure of what you are asking....:knockout:

[300SRT8U]

So you're asking how to go about keeping the factory NAV head unit and adding an aftermaket amp? Are you wanting to run the high end door speakers, etc..? or adding a sub? Let me know before I go into the whole thing... Just want to make sure of what you are asking....:knockout:


well, excuse my idiocy...i'm thinking:

1) SHOULD i replace the Kicker system speakers?

2) Amp?

3) Sub? yet keep the factory housing

or, is perhaps tweeking the Kicker going to offer up a good enough long term option?

hope that elucidats things? but this isn't my area of expertise :knockout:

[modesto83]

well, excuse my idiocy...i'm thinking:

1) SHOULD i replace the Kicker system speakers?

2) Amp?

3) Sub? yet keep the factory housing

or, is perhaps tweeking the Kicker going to offer up a good enough long term option?

hope that elucidats things? but this isn't my area of expertise :knockout:

i have the same question, im going to upgrade all my speakers and the amp, how would i be able to upgrade the amp? and if i can how will i be able to do that. sorry im not tryin to steal your thread

[Crazy Lou]

No worries man --

If I were in you position, and keeping the factory NAV head unit, I would replace the interior high end speakers with some nice high wattage units and install a quality six channel amp to run the speakers... Then if keeping the kicker trunk sub enclosure, replace the sub with a similar unit and adding a mono amp that solely runs the sub. As far as the trunk enclosure goes, I've never taken mine apart, so I do not know if it's truly a sealed box or not. I also do not know the interior air volume of the stock enclosure. These are things to take into consideration when shopping for a subwoofer for the enclosure.

The main issue that I would have with this setup is that you would have to use "high inputs" for the amps, where the factory decks speaker wiring is supplying the signal to the amps rather than the preferred "low inputs" that use RCA cabling, which is commonplace in aftermarket head units. Using the high inputs would work, but this method does not supply the cleanest source signal to the amplifiers, which gets passed on through you speakers. The difference between the two methods is negligible... but if you compared the two side by side you would be able to hear that the system sounds better using the low inputs. They do make line input converters that change the speaker wire input into a RCA jack outlet for the amps that may supply a cleaner signal.

By keeping your stock NAV you would have to splice into the existing speaker wiring system to provide the signal to the amps from the nav unit, and then you'd have to splice back in to provide the signal from the amps back to the speakers. When adding amps, there’s always a lot of wiring involved. You would have to run power & turn on wiring for the amps, would be much easier if your car's batter is in the trunk.

All in all it can be done. It would be a little easier with an aftermarket head unit as the RCA "low" outputs for an amplifier are hard wired into the head unit.

I would not suggest replacing the interior speaker without going with an amplifier to run them. You won't get much performance increase by just replacing the speakers...

Hope this yields some insight!

[modesto83]

No worries man --

If I were in you position, and keeping the factory NAV head unit, I would replace the interior high end speakers with some nice high wattage units and install a quality six channel amp to run the speakers... Then if keeping the kicker trunk sub enclosure, replace the sub with a similar unit and adding a mono amp that solely runs the sub. As far as the trunk enclosure goes, I've never taken mine apart, so I do not know if it's truly a sealed box or not. I also do not know the interior air volume of the stock enclosure. These are things to take into consideration when shopping for a subwoofer for the enclosure.

The main issue that I would have with this setup is that you would have to use "high inputs" for the amps, where the factory decks speaker wiring is supplying the signal to the amps rather than the preferred "low inputs" that use RCA cabling, which is commonplace in aftermarket head units. Using the high inputs would work, but this method does not supply the cleanest source signal to the amplifiers, which gets passed on through you speakers. The difference between the two methods is negligible... but if you compared the two side by side you would be able to hear that the system sounds better using the low inputs. They do make line input converters that change the speaker wire input into a RCA jack outlet for the amps that may supply a cleaner signal.

By keeping your stock NAV you would have to splice into the existing speaker wiring system to provide the signal to the amps from the nav unit, and then you'd have to splice back in to provide the signal from the amps back to the speakers. When adding amps, there’s always a lot of wiring involved. You would have to run power & turn on wiring for the amps, would be much easier if your car's batter is in the trunk.

All in all it can be done. It would be a little easier with an aftermarket head unit as the RCA "low" outputs for an amplifier are hard wired into the head unit.

I would not suggest replacing the interior speaker without going with an amplifier to run them. You won't get much performance increase by just replacing the speakers...

Hope this yields some insight!

so what your saying basically is, the speaker wire coming out of the nav head unit, cut it, the wire coming from nav unit, hook that up to the rca line input inverters, hook up the rca and send it to the amp, then hook up the speaker outputs and send that to the rest of the speakers? hope this makes sense. thanx man

[Crazy Lou]

so what your saying basically is, the speaker wire coming out of the nav head unit, cut it, the wire coming from nav unit, hook that up to the rca line input inverters, hook up the rca and send it to the amp, then hook up the speaker outputs and send that to the rest of the speakers? hope this makes sense. thanx man

Yes -

But if your car has the factory amp, you will have to do some of this splicing at the factory amp. The head unit has wires for the left channel and the right channel. These four wires go to the factory amp, which splits the signal, amplifies, and then sends the signal out the speakers.

So you'd wire your line converters for left and right at the head unit, then run the RCA's to your aftermarket amp(s).

Then you'd run the speaker outputs on the amp(s) back up to the dash and tie the individual speaker wires from the amp into the output wires of the stock amp. The stock amp wires are the ones that are built into you car and run to the individual speakers. I have done this before on a couple of other vehicles, but not on the charger, but from what I've read about it, the factory amp in the charger is behind the dash left of the steering wheel. I also do not know the wire colors that go to the speakers from the stock amp location. A little trial and error will determine which wires go to which speakers. A trick I use for this (when I will be replacing the stock speakers) is to strip the wiring and touch the bar ends to the terminals on a 9-volt battery. By holding one wire down on one side, and then just tapping another wire on the opposite batter terminal you should be able to hear a "pop" from the speaker, which indicated the correct wires and the speakers position. ONLY DO THIS IS YOU WILL BE REPLACING THE STOCK SPEAKERS. Sending voltage to new aftermarket speakers could damage them.

Hope that helps to explain the process...

[cofo]

LOUUUUUUU.........im seein this 300 antenna adapter on ebay...... for like 6.99...does that sound about right?? seems awfully cheap...but the picture looks right!

[Crazy Lou]

LOUUUUUUU.........im seein this 300 antenna adapter on ebay...... for like 6.99...does that sound about right?? seems awfully cheap...but the picture looks right!

Yeah that sounds about right.... they're no more than $15.00 new. Just a 6" wire with a chrysler end connect and an aftermarket end connect on the other end...:smile:

[rodrigomorejon]

Hi Crazy Lou, I'm from Brazil and im buying a 2007 300C SRT8, that comes only in march, Im searching the net to find solutions to use a IVA-W200 in the 300C Dash, in Brazil this car come with complete Kicker System but without navigation, just the normal Mp3 player with 2 lateral knobs, with your post I can now do the right thing to intall my car system, with Alpine amplifiers, signal processor and other things. Thank you!!

Rodrigo.

[Crazy Lou]

I'm glad to see that the information was useful to you Rodrigo - Best of luck with your install!

[Nifo]

Ok, I have an SE, just orderd the NAV bezel, what do I exactley need next? please give me all the part names and part numbers and from where to get it, il be thankful :)

[1sicsrt]

Lou, grat work. I just have one question, what if you wanted to do everything you didbut ad factory bluetooth instead of aftermarket is it possible , will it work with an after market navi?

[Crazy Lou]

Lou, grat work. I just have one question, what if you wanted to do everything you didbut ad factory bluetooth instead of aftermarket is it possible , will it work with an after market navi?

Don't quote me on this, but I think the factory bluetooth (U-Connect) is a part of the factory Nav radio... If you go with aftermarket head unit, I think you need to go with aftermarket bluetooth... Do a search for "U Connect". I've seen a lot of info about adding it... but nothing about using it with an aftermarket head unit...

[iCeD00D]

Lou -- TY for the post!! OMGL thats awsome.. But one question bugs me... will I still be able to use my Sirus module that is in my car currently (module and antenna) or will I have to buy both and remount the antenna.... TKS!

[Crazy Lou]

Lou -- TY for the post!! OMGL thats awsome.. But one question bugs me... will I still be able to use my Sirus module that is in my car currently (module and antenna) or will I have to buy both and remount the antenna.... TKS!

So far as I know you will have to use an aftermarket sirius unit that is compatible with your new head unit... also, a new antena. And from my many expirences from Sirius, if you have not had your subscription for very long, they may transfer your subscription to a new unit at no charge. Typically they'd charge you $50.00 to transfer your subscription. As for the antena issue, I'd leave your factory antena inatalled and put the new antena inside the car on the rear deck behind the rear seats. The satellite signals go right through the glass, which eliminates another antena on your roof, and any BS (holes in your roof) you may have to go through if you wanted to remove the factory antena. :knockout: Lou

[iCeD00D]

Lou -- Tks for the reply..... The ony reason I ask is because if you look in all the other websites that sell the DD's, you'll notice that the Sirus radio is almost the same type of modle as ours... Just didnt want holes in my roof either! DOAH!!! ... Tks much bro...

[Nifo]

Ok, I have an SE, just orderd the NAV bezel, what do I exactley need next? please give me all the part names and part numbers and from where to get it, il be thankful :)

[BlackCharger06]

Your better off bypassing the factory amp. With the pac set up you have, you can do that. It will sound a lot better. It doesn't make anysense spending all kinds of money on a deck with out replacing the speakers and everything else. Hell I did it, so it can't be that hard.

[gojiro4065]

Crazy Lou,

I read on a post somewhere that using an aftermarket HU with the factory amp and sub will fry the new HU because of a disparity in volts or something to that effect. How stable is it to tie in an aftermarket HU into the factory equipment (sub/amp/speakers)?

By the way, I have the exact same set-up (factory) as you and am going to install the kenwood DNX7100 I believe and I am wondring if you have any good pics of everything once the harnesses were all wired together... To me, it looks like a bunch of spaghetti...

Thank you.

[Crazy Lou]

Crazy Lou,

I read on a post somewhere that using an aftermarket HU with the factory amp and sub will fry the new HU because of a disparity in volts or something to that effect. How stable is it to tie in an aftermarket HU into the factory equipment (sub/amp/speakers)?

By the way, I have the exact same set-up (factory) as you and am going to install the kenwood DNX7100 I believe and I am wondring if you have any good pics of everything once the harnesses were all wired together... To me, it looks like a bunch of spaghetti...

Thank you.

I can't imagine an aftermarker head unit doing damage to the factory speakers or amp. Audio equipment is audio equipment, stock or not, and people do this kind of thing everyday in tons of different applications. Mine has been installed for a while now and it sounds great. No probelms whatsoever. As for the pics, I'd have to pull my deck out to get some for you, and thats probably not going to happen anytime soon, but I will tell you that spagetti is a pretty good analogy... :knockout: Lou

[Crazy Lou]

Originally Posted by Nifo
Ok, I have an SE, just orderd the NAV bezel, what do I exactley need next? please give me all the part names and part numbers and from where to get it, il be thankful

What part #'s do you want? The harnesses are listed.... The faceplace kit is listed.... the head unit is listed....

[gojiro4065]

Crazy Lou,

what was involved in placing the NAV antenna on the rear deck? Was it a pain to run from the front to the back? What's involved in placing it on the front dash?

Do you recall which wires you need to splice/crimp together?

Thank you.

[Crazy Lou]

Crazy Lou,

what was involved in placing the NAV antenna on the rear deck? Was it a pain to run from the front to the back? What's involved in placing it on the front dash?

Do you recall which wires you need to splice/crimp together?


As with running any wiring through the vehicle, it can be a pain, but really was not too difficult. I got a small round piece for thin steel, painted it black, and attached it to the felt on the rear deck with adhesive Velcro. My magnetic Sirius and navigation antennas sit on the metal. The wiring is routed between the fiberglass rear deck and the felt, and just pop through behind the steel plate for a clean install. I've heard of people putting the antena on the front dash, but as for me, I'd rather not see it, and it seems much more difficult to install through the back of the dash than running it to the rear deck, which was easy.

I'm not sure what wiring you are referring to, but for the aftermarket navigation unit, you need power just as you would on any other auto electronics device, always on power, switched power, and a ground.

:knockout: Lou

[TeeJizzle]

Ok, I have the 6 speaker boston system, but I am replacing all the speakers, head unit amps and everything. Do I still need the Pac Harness?

[mannyhernz]

[/QUOTE]You will need PAC harness C2R-CHY which is the CAN bus interface which would control the stock amp, etc... If you have steering wheel controls, you'll need PAC harness SWI-CAN, along with a third PAC harness for you specific stereo brand. Those are SWI-X, SWI-ALP, SWI-PS, or SWI-ECL. See below for PAC’s web address to determine which harness you need.
[/QUOTE]

so for my application i would only need the c2r-chy because i do not have steering wheel controls and i do not want to bypass the amp. is this correct?the other harnesses are for the steering wheel controls correct?

thanks lou:knockout:

[Crazy Lou]

Ok, I have the 6 speaker boston system, but I am replacing all the speakers, head unit amps and everything. Do I still need the Pac Harness?

You don't necessarily need the C2R-CHY if you're planning to replace everything, but you will need an aftermarker wiring harness in order to be able to tap into power, etc... Either one will work for that application, but you will save some cash on using a plane ol' aftermarker Chrysler wiring harness.

[Crazy Lou]

so for my application i would only need the c2r-chy because i do not have steering wheel controls and i do not want to bypass the amp. is this correct?the other harnesses are for the steering wheel controls correct?

Thats right -- see post above, same question. And Yes, the other harnesses are for the steering wheel controls. Best of luck!

[gojiro4065]

Can anyone tell me which interface is the better choice for:

1. Ease of installation/directions?
2. Maintain Steering Wheel Controls?
3. Maintain use of factory Sub and amp?

I guess my 4th question is can I use the Metra CHTO-01, in place of the C2R-CHY Interface, with the SWI-CAN and SWI-PS?

Thank you.

[Crazy Lou]

Can anyone tell me which interface is the better choice for:

1. Ease of installation/directions?
2. Maintain Steering Wheel Controls?
3. Maintain use of factory Sub and amp?

I guess my 4th question is can I use the Metra CHTO-01, in place of the C2R-CHY Interface, with the SWI-CAN and SWI-PS?

Thank you.

The CHTO & the C2R-CHY do the same thing.... However, I'd suggest using the PAC components. They all link to one another. The Metra CHTO-01 will not integrate into the other two steering wheel harnesses. Just follow the advise as listed in my original post in this thread and you'll be set. I added an afetrmarket double din DVD w/ Sirius, Nav, bluetooth, etc... and am using the factory amp, sub, and speakers. The process is fairly straightforward if you're slightly technically inclined. It seems a little daunting at first when you see what needs to be done. Just read the directions and take you're time and all will work. I got it right on the first attempt, and you can too.

:knockout: Lou

[chargeit2thegame]

great advice. my question is i have a kenwood kdc-mp635 installed with the pac can bus adaptor thingamajig and the radio cuts off at will for no apparent reason. i found out that if i go to the trunk and take out fuse # 35( i think, i may be wrong about the number) and put the same fuse i removed back in, the radio comes back on. it does this all day. i disassembled the dash to make sure all my connections were tight and they were. its gotta be the can bus thing cuz i put basically the same setup in the charger as i had previously had in my magnum. the only difference is with the magnum i rewired EVERYTHING and got all new speakers. i'm running a alpine amp driving 2 12inch rockfords and factory speakers driven by the radio (bypassed with the can bus i assume). any suggestions??

[Crazy Lou]

great advice. my question is i have a kenwood kdc-mp635 installed with the pac can bus adaptor thingamajig and the radio cuts off at will for no apparent reason. i found out that if i go to the trunk and take out fuse # 35( i think, i may be wrong about the number) and put the same fuse i removed back in, the radio comes back on. it does this all day. i disassembled the dash to make sure all my connections were tight and they were. its gotta be the can bus thing cuz i put basically the same setup in the charger as i had previously had in my magnum. the only difference is with the magnum i rewired EVERYTHING and got all new speakers. i'm running a alpine amp driving 2 12inch rockfords and factory speakers driven by the radio (bypassed with the can bus i assume). any suggestions??

Basically what's happening is that your factory amp that is running your door speakers is losing the turn on signal. What harness are you using? It should be PAC Harness C2R-CHY, or you could use the one made by Metra - CHTO-01 -- they both do the same thing. From what you're describing, it sounds like you've got a bad harness, or have wired something incorrectly. Pulling a fuse or turning the car off and on, etc... will reset the system, but this is not a permanent fix.

[chargeit2thegame]

Basically what's happening is that your factory amp that is running your door speakers is losing the turn on signal. What harness are you using? It should be PAC Harness C2R-CHY, or you could use the one made by Metra - CHTO-01 -- they both do the same thing. From what you're describing, it sounds like you've got a bad harness, or have wired something incorrectly. Pulling a fuse or turning the car off and on, etc... will reset the system, but this is not a permanent fix.
i'm using the PAC harness. i think i'ma just rewire the whole car and bypass the factory amp by disconnecting it. that harness cost me 135.00 and i can take it back. i hate to do it the hard way but i want my system to play when i want it to and not when IT wants to:(

[TeeJizzle]

i'm using the PAC harness. i think i'ma just rewire the whole car and bypass the factory amp by disconnecting it. that harness cost me 135.00 and i can take it back. i hate to do it the hard way but i want my system to play when i want it to and not when IT wants to:(

wouldn't you still need the harness if you bypass everything to get an acc outlet and remote. also, doesn't the harness keep your computer from going crazy.

[chargeit2thegame]

wouldn't you still need the harness if you bypass everything to get an acc outlet and remote. also, doesn't the harness keep your computer from going crazy.
no. i bypassed the factory alarm by unplugging it and i tapped into the acc wire for the cig lighter for the radio. i had no problems whatsoever.

[TeeJizzle]

no. i bypassed the factory alarm by unplugging it and i tapped into the acc wire for the cig lighter for the radio. i had no problems whatsoever.


The shop that is installing my system told me I needed the pac harness to integrate aftermarket radio with can-bus, even though I am replacing all speakers and using aftermarket amp.

[blackspeeddevil]

Hey Chargeritthegame... That Same Problem Had Been Happenin To Me For A Long Time... I Got Tired Of It So I Just Left All The Speakers Alone.. Im Waintin On My New Kicker Amp To Arrive So I Can Put That One....

[chargeit2thegame]

The shop that is installing my system told me I needed the pac harness to integrate aftermarket radio with can-bus, even though I am replacing all speakers and using aftermarket amp.u only need a can bus if u have the boston acoustics sound system. if ur bypassing the factory amp u dont need the can bus but u can use the adaptor. the bad thing is the adaptor doesnt have a acc wire (either that one or 12volt i cant remember) and u have to tap into the wire of the cig lighter to get power. i dont reccommend getting the PAC. get the Metra or the Peripheral. theyre better quality

[Crazy Lou]

u only need a can bus if u have the boston acoustics sound system. if ur bypassing the factory amp u dont need the can bus but u can use the adaptor. the bad thing is the adaptor doesnt have a acc wire (either that one or 12volt i cant remember) and u have to tap into the wire of the cig lighter to get power. i dont reccommend getting the PAC. get the Metra or the Peripheral. theyre better quality

Please forgive my directness, but you are wrong about some things on the PAC harness - C2R-CHY (same as the Metra CHTO-01). The adapter does has a ground, an always on 12V, and a remote sensing wire. If you are using the power leads on the circuit designed for your head unit, you will need the harness if your car has a factory installed amp, BA or Kicker, even if you are bypassing it for your audio amplification. If you don't use the harness the CANBUS system will not be receiving the digital signal and will cut off power to you head unit intermittently. Using power from your accessory port works for your application, but to say that the CAN-BUS harness does not have power leads is incorrect and misleading. There may be others who have a different applications in mind.
:knockout: Lou

[chargeit2thegame]

Please forgive my directness, but you are wrong about some things on the PAC harness - C2R-CHY (same as the Metra CHTO-01). The adapter does has a ground, an always on 12V, and a remote sensing wire. If you are using the power leads on the circuit designed for your head unit, you will need the harness if your car has a factory installed amp, BA or Kicker, even if you are bypassing it for your audio amplification. If you don't use the harness the CANBUS system will not be receiving the digital signal and will cut off power to you head unit intermittently. Using power from your accessory port works for your application, but to say that the CAN-BUS harness does not have power leads is incorrect and misleading. There may be others who have a different applications in mind.
:knockout: Louok. i was told by the dealer that. i could be wrong. i'm not a pro on the topic just relaying what ive been thru and what i was told. thanks for the correction BUT i know for a fact u dont HAVE to use the can bus thing if u rewire everything. they didnt make the can bus adaptor when i rewired my magnum in 2005.

[TeeJizzle]

ok. i was told by the dealer that. i could be wrong. i'm not a pro on the topic just relaying what ive been thru and what i was told. thanks for the correction BUT i know for a fact u dont HAVE to use the can bus thing if u rewire everything. they didnt make the can bus adaptor when i rewired my magnum in 2005.

But did you have the boston system? I have the boston system, even though I am bypassing the amp, I was told I still need the pac harness, I already have it. I'm waiting on my Clarion DVD and then I will be installing. Will post pics after its done.

[chargeit2thegame]

But did you have the boston system? I have the boston system, even though I am bypassing the amp, I was told I still need the pac harness, I already have it. I'm waiting on my Clarion DVD and then I will be installing. Will post pics after its done.i honestly dont know. On the magnum i had it clearly stated "boston acoustics" on the inside pillar of the side mirrors but on the charger it doesnt say. the audio shop i went to told me if i have speakers in the dash, doors, and rear panel( which i DO have) then its a boston acoustics set up... i'll find out 2morrow when i redo everything.

[BlackCharger06]

What a pain in the ass these cars are to add a little thump. I helped a friend do a system in a 89 Jeep. Man that was easy.

[chargeit2thegame]

i honestly dont know. On the magnum i had it clearly stated "boston acoustics" on the inside pillar of the side mirrors but on the charger it doesnt say. the audio shop i went to told me if i have speakers in the dash, doors, and rear panel( which i DO have) then its a boston acoustics set up... i'll find out 2morrow when i redo everything.
bump... 3 weeks later and i STILL havent rewired it. i'm planning on doing it tomorrow nite. i got new subs and a new amp now so hopefully i'll have something to smile about when i repost in this.

[ping]

A somewhat related question...

I'm looking at getting the Kenwood DDX-7019, and adding the KNA-GS10 NAV unit at some point. This will be my first touchscreen owned. I've heard that there is a trick to getting movies to play while the car is in motion. Any ideas on where to start?

Also, how do I determine which stereo setup I have, amp or not, etc.?

[Crazy Lou]

A somewhat related question...

I'm looking at getting the Kenwood DDX-7019, and adding the KNA-GS10 NAV unit at some point. This will be my first touchscreen owned. I've heard that there is a trick to getting movies to play while the car is in motion. Any ideas on where to start?

Also, how do I determine which stereo setup I have, amp or not, etc.?

When doing your wiring hookup, there will be a wire that the install manual asks you to hook to the parking brake sensor. All you need to do is hook this wire up to your ground wire. This tricks the head unit into thinking that the car is in park all the time, thus allowing movies to be played anytime.

Best of luck!

:knockout: Lou

[chargeit2thegame]

When doing your wiring hookup, there will be a wire that the install manual asks you to hook to the parking brake sensor. All you need to do is hook this wire up to your ground wire. This tricks the head unit into thinking that the car is in park all the time, thus allowing movies to be played anytime.

Best of luck!

:knockout: Louyup. on every kenwood or pioneer monitor i've owned its been a green wire.

[Crazy Lou]

That is correct. Per the DDX7019 install manual, page four, the Parking Sensor Wire is light green.

[daytona7ATL]

A somewhat related question...

I'm looking at getting the Kenwood DDX-7019, and adding the KNA-GS10 NAV unit at some point. This will be my first touchscreen owned. I've heard that there is a trick to getting movies to play while the car is in motion. Any ideas on where to start?

Also, how do I determine which stereo setup I have, amp or not, etc.?


Also, I noticed you said you was getting the ddx-7019 and the nav piece addon. I'll give you a heads up and advise you to get the Kenwood dnx7100 which has all the features of the ddx7019 but with navigation built in. There are a couple of places online where you can get this unit for under $1000. The ddx8019 is the same as the 7019 with a little more voltage on the preouts and I believe it has a little more option for adjusting the sound but nothing ground breaking.

The upside to the dnx7100 with the built in nav is that you can go to kenwood website and download updates to a usb drive and connect the usb drive to the system to update. Much better than having to order cd's every 6-12months.

[ping]

Also, I noticed you said you was getting the ddx-7019 and the nav piece addon. I'll give you a heads up and advise you to get the Kenwood dnx7100 which has all the features of the ddx7019 but with navigation built in. There are a couple of places online where you can get this unit for under $1000. The ddx8019 is the same as the 7019 with a little more voltage on the preouts and I believe it has a little more option for adjusting the sound but nothing ground breaking.

The upside to the dnx7100 with the built in nav is that you can go to kenwood website and download updates to a usb drive and connect the usb drive to the system to update. Much better than having to order cd's every 6-12months.

Advice noted, but I have a couple of questions on that...

First, my main reason for looking at both Alpine and Kenwood systems is that you have separate NAV units. The Alpine has a NAV unit that actually slides IN the receiver, and the Kenwood a separately mounted NAV unit. I chose Kenwood because of looks, both had the options I was wanting, but the Kenwood just looked better in my eyes.

On the dnx7100, you mentioned being able to download the maps to a USB. I was looking at the kna-g510 NAV unit, and it's my understanding that this unit has a SDRAM card (similar to digital cameras) that holds the maps. So this would be the same thing right?

I should mention, I chose the Kenwood because it allows me to eventually add extra monitors in the back for my daughter, so she'll be able to watch her movies while I use the NAV up front. With some models I looked at, they only had one player, so you could either watch movies, or use the NAV, not both at once.

Oh, and I can get the Kenwood DDX7019 and KNAG510 for $1034.90 shipped.

[Crazy Lou]

On the dnx7100, you mentioned being able to download the maps to a USB. I was looking at the kna-g510 NAV unit, and it's my understanding that this unit has a SDRAM card (similar to digital cameras) that holds the maps. So this would be the same thing right?


You are correct. The Kenwood unit does have an SD slot for updating. You need to provide your own SD card however. The card & slot are just for updating. The data is stored in onboard flash memory, not the card. You download the update from Garmins website to the card and and pop the SD card into the nav unit and it updates automatically.

:knockout: Lou

[luv2dope]

this post has helped me TREMENDOUSLY, and yea i have to order like 3 PAC pieces.. heh, figures :/

[me_different]

Crazy Lou;
Thanks for this detailed write up. I have 2 questions as I just got my DNX5120 GPS/Sterio Unit and I bought a BT-200 Bluetooth.
I have Honda Accord 2001 and there are buttons on the steering wheel that I would like to activate with this DNX5120 Unit. I bought this cable swi-jack from installer.com, I want to know if I need anyother cable to do this connectivity between my car steering buttons and Kenwood DNX5120 (I am asking you because you have mentioned 2-3 different cables in your writeup to do this connectivity Please let me know.

Can you send me pics of your install as the link you provided is not working.
my email id is me_different @ yahoo.com
Thanks,
medifferent

[robert_ayala]

I just installed the same head unit using the same PAC adapters and came across and issue with the GPS and bluetooth. I cannot hear anyone on a call but they can hear me nor can i hear any guidance from the GPS unit. Any thoughts?