New radio install problems

[sdepace]

I own a charger R/T. I wanted to upgrade my radio so I bought a JVC KD-AVX1 DVD/Sirius radio. I had it insatlled at a professional shop but I'm having troubles. 1) the fader doesn't work, only the front speakers have audio and balance seems off to the right 2) their is a grounding or engine noise 3) about every tenth time I start the car, the radio has power ( i can eject a disc) but isn't fully operational for about a minute.

I have heard that the possible solutions for problem 1 and 2 is to bypass the dodge amp and problem 3 is due to the device that the installer put in which tricks the car into thinking that the factorty radio is still installed.

Any ideas?

[cofo]

What harness did your guy use? ...sure doesnt sound like the right one :S

[sdepace]

What harness did your guy use? ...sure doesnt sound like the right one :S

I'm not sure. I will open it up and find out. What should I look for? Can you suggest one?

[Crazy Lou]

They should have put in PAC harness C2R-CHY which is the CAN bus interface which would control the stock amp, etc... then if you have steering wheel controls, you'd need PAC harness SWI-CAN, along with a third PAC harness for you specific stereo brand. Those are SWI-X, SWI-ALP, SWI-PS, or SWI-ECL. The factory amp is a two channel unit, and the fader is controlled by data sending from the stock head unit. When you install an aftermarket head unit and keep the stock amp, using C2R-CHY, the front speaker outputs of the new head unit are connected to the rear speaker inputs of the car via the harness, which sets the fade to center by default. So unless you bypass the stock amp, you will not be able to fade between front and rear. Hope this gives some insight...

[sdepace]

Thanks, that helps a lot! What is the downside to bypassing the amp? I think my system has 6 speakers. Is there a way to hook it up so all of my speakers will work?

Any thoughts on the ground/engine noise? Will a simple filter take care of it? To further describe the noise I hear, the noise is constant and doesn't change pitch with the engine RPM. I also only hear it when the audio is turned low (or a pause in audio content).

Thanks for your help!

[Crazy Lou]

I just installed a DVD/NAV unit this past weekend. It was a Kenwood unit, and I used C2R-CHY, SWI-CAN, and SWI-ALP. Everything worked perfectly. I have my steering wheel controls; the factory amp turns on without problems (besides the loss of the fading capability, which was anticipated). I have no engine noise. Rather than buying a filter first for your ground noise, I would check to make sure that the power (yellow), accessory (red), and the ground (black) are all hooked up to the factory harness that supplied power to your factory stereo. If they hooked any of these up to a different circuit or ground you have the potential for ground noise. The circuits for the factory unit are isolated in the fuse box to avoid the buzz you're getting.

As for bypassing the factory amp, you'd need a wiring kit to power new amp, and you'd need to tie into the speaker wiring at the factory amp. As for how exactly the six speakers are connected at the factory amp, I do no know. I'd assume it would be a trial and error process unit you figured out the wiring for each speaker. Your other option would be to rewire each speaker rather than using the factory wiring...

[circleAcustoms]

I would take the car back to the guy that did the install and raise hell with him until he fixed the problem!

[fluffykush]

wait... the factory amp is a 2CH???? how in the hell is it driving 6 speakers without cuttin out? If i was to by-pass the factory amp...would a 4ch amp work with the 6 speaker setup?

[CrAkD 06 RT]

i believe the amp is 6ch but the connection that you tap into before the amp is 2ch.

[BAY_BANNANER]

I hope you didn't pay to much for the job. I payed 90 bucks for just the harnes to by pass amp and keep factory alert . forget the factory amp if your changing the deck your prob. goin to add bass and all that trouble just get rid of the paper cones and do it right
and find a better shop!!
you will like it better

[fluffykush]

seriously why in the hell would they stick those paper cone speakers...i've seen hondas with better speakers...the BA's sound nice and all but you cant crank it up passed 25 cause those paper speakers will die so quick. I plan on changing all 6 BA's to some infinity kappas with a JL audio amp. I've had kappas in my camry with a kicker amp and those things will make your ears bleed.

[sdepace]

I just installed a DVD/NAV unit this past weekend. It was a Kenwood unit, and I used C2R-CHY, SWI-CAN, and SWI-ALP. Everything worked perfectly. I have my steering wheel controls; the factory amp turns on without problems (besides the loss of the fading capability, which was anticipated). I have no engine noise. Rather than buying a filter first for your ground noise, I would check to make sure that the power (yellow), accessory (red), and the ground (black) are all hooked up to the factory harness that supplied power to your factory stereo. If they hooked any of these up to a different circuit or ground you have the potential for ground noise. The circuits for the factory unit are isolated in the fuse box to avoid the buzz you're getting.

So I decided to try to fix it myself. I opened up the dash and discovered that the installer hooked up all four speakers instead of the front outputs to the rear only which the Interface instructions state. That solved my balance problem. I looked at your suggestion from above to fix the grounding problem, but everything looked good. I actually thought I had miraculously fixed it until I turned on the car only to hear it again.

I also noticed that they didn't use C2R-CHY. They used "Peripheral" CHYAH05 instead. They appear to be the same part when I compared the instructions online. http://peripheralelectronics.com/periph_products/Instructions/CHYAH05%20Instructions.pdf

and http://www.pac-audio.com/instructions/C2R-CHY.pdf

I also noticed that the firmware is revision 1.3.7 The latest firmware for the PAC product is 1.4.13. My first question is, are these the same part? Do they have different firmware revisions? Is my firmware, if out of date, possibly the cause of the ground noise and an occasional delay in the radio starting up?

Thanks for your help.

[Crazy Lou]

Well from the instructions, they appear to be the same product. I have the PAC with rev. 1.4.13 and do not have radio startup issues, nor have I had any issued with HAL due to the aftermarket install. The ground noise is not from the firmware. It's a bad connection somewhere in the circuit. I'd blame your installer.... especially since he botched the speaker wiring... So I guess you could take it back to your installer and see what they would do... or go with the PAC harness and rewire everything.... you should not be expirencing these issues with a quality install...

Hope this provised some insight...

Lou

[sound&security]

i've been doing stereo's for 27 years and i can tell you that pac makes great parts but their can-bus interface is a major piece of s@@t. engine noise is comimg from their interface. inside they are having major problems with the part losing its ground from defective diodes!!!!!!! use the metra piece!!! it wont lose its ground and it has 4 RCA inputs so u get try right to left and fade. do not bypass the factory amp. if you have the kicker or boston system u will lose the woofer in the back deck and the rest of the system will sound like dog poop! because of the way the speakers are crossed over by the factory amp. your jvc doesnt have the power that the factory amp does. so unlees you do a after market amp and know rite were to cross over the speaker levels. pm me and i will help u find the metra part in you area. by the way circuit city and sound advice in fort lauderdale call me when they find that they hit a road block.

[sound&security]

i just finished putting a JL audio amp in a 300c and we used the stock boston speakers. 100 watts to the fronts. 35 watts to the rears and 15 watts to the dash caped off at 90 to 155 HZ and took out the factory sub- ported the rear deck and ran two JL 12's off a JL 500 and this car has amazing sound quality. the kicker factory speakers do not have the mid bass reproduction that the bostons have. my car is all JL audio 4" dash 6x9 doors and 6x9 deck with the factory sub removed with 2 JL 12's and i ended up dynamating the whole car and rust proofing the doors and we put the dash and door speakers back with the bostons tonight and it sounds better then any of the 6 other speaker comb's that we tryed. the back deck we left the JL 6x9's two bring ths staging up a bit.

[sdepace]

So I finally got the updated firmware for the peripheral part. I plugged it in and I still hear the noise. I can't exactly go back to the installer since I'm not in the area. To describe the noise it doesn't change frequency with the engine like some radios I had in the 80's. It does however completely go away when I turn off the engine. I'll check the wiring again, but can I buy a filter to condition the power or lift the ground? Can it really be the Peripheral part causing the problem?

[gojiro4065]

To Sound@Security,

I'm considering putting in a Pioneer AVICD3 or Z1 (not sure which) and I am a little confused by your post. Are you saying it is possible to keep Fade control without having to bypass the factory amp? I also want to keep my steering wheel controls so I was going to go with Pac-Audio's SWI-CAN, SWI-PS, and their wiring harness C2R-CHY. But you are saying the Metra harness is better? Will it also interface with the SWI-CAN and SWI PS without problems..? Do you have a part number for the metra?

Thank you.

[titan]

Alright, I am going to open myself up to flaming because I did not see a thread on it and don't recall ever seeing one. Will CAN not allow us to add in steering wheel controls after the fact or should it just be plug and play? This is all assuming it is even possible to install them, but I don't see why it would not be. I have added them to a Chrysler T&C and my Jeep Liberty in the past, and those are much more complicated simply because they are part of the steering wheel sleeve (switches are on the back of the wheel). All that I had to do was buy and swap the expanded wiring harness to support the switches, the switches themselves, and model and model year depending, a new clockspring. Some cars the clockspring already supports the switches, some models you may need to upgrade it... I imagine this aspect will be the same for the Charger, so I am not concerned about that yet. I just want to know how CAN works with the steering wheel switches before I find out the parts and buy them.