radar detector hardwire

[R/TommyB]

I just learned last night (while perusing my manual) that the fuse box is not located inside the passenger compartment, so I'm curious how to hardwire my radar detector.

Searching these forums found me one link over on the LX forums:
http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=11339

but I'm curious if anyone here has hardwired one in the Charger. MY car also has the smoker's group, which means my cig lighter is always on, so I'd prefer to avoid using that connection if possible.

[milkdud99]

I just learned last night (while perusing my manual) that the fuse box is not located inside the passenger compartment, so I'm curious how to hardwire my radar detector.

Searching these forums found me one link over on the LX forums:
http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=11339

but I'm curious if anyone here has hardwired one in the Charger. MY car also has the smoker's group, which means my cig lighter is always on, so I'd prefer to avoid using that connection if possible.
so where is the fuse box.... cause u can jusst wire it to the windshield wipers or somthing that goes on with the car... its quite easy

[RadarmagneT]

You can easily get the ACC power and ground from the overhead console.
Click the "roof RD Power" link in my sig.
please help finish these instructions (more pics, better descriptions)

[a14umbra]

You can easily get the ACC power and ground from the overhead console.
Click the "roof RD Power" link in my sig.
please help finish these instructions (more pics, better descriptions)

You got my vote for "Most Useful Sig". Nice job.

[RadarmagneT]

You got my vote for "Most Useful Sig". Nice job.

Thanks, if you follow that link, you will also see the "BoxMod" where I opened up the bottom of the factory air box for a little more "sound". Not quite as good as the K&N I have now, but more throaty than stock.

[Crazy_luck]

I just learned last night (while perusing my manual) that the fuse box is not located inside the passenger compartment, so I'm curious how to hardwire my radar detector.

Searching these forums found me one link over on the LX forums:
http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=11339

but I'm curious if anyone here has hardwired one in the Charger. MY car also has the smoker's group, which means my cig lighter is always on, so I'd prefer to avoid using that connection if possible.


The sig lighter in the dash is NOT always on, after you turn the key off and open the door, it loses power. The one inside the center console ALWAYS has power.

[R/TommyB]

I'll have to check, Crazy Luck, but I did read somewhere that if you have the smoker's group, then both sockets are always on.
Thanks for the info, RadarMagnet.

[Crazy_luck]

I'll have to check, Crazy Luck, but I did read somewhere that if you have the smoker's group, then both sockets are always on.
Thanks for the info, RadarMagnet.

IIRC, the dash one is only on when there is power to other in cabin features (radio and such). It is meant as a safety feature, that way kids (or dumb people) left in the car can't accidentally start a fire with the lighter. Also, the lighter part will not work in the one in the center console. It was the same way in my 2001 Ram and its the same in my cousins 300 Touring (which has the smokers package)....

[GoDaddy]

so where is the fuse box.... cause u can jusst wire it to the windshield wipers or somthing that goes on with the car... its quite easy

now that would look priceless....poor guy driving around with his wipers on in the clear of day just to get his radar detector to work :happy: :embarrese

[gserp4sox]

RTommyB,

I ran a wires from the fuse block in the trunk, thru the back seat, along the rocker panel, up the windshield piller, and along the headliner. No tools required and took 10 minutes, just keep tucking it in. Tap any "on" with ignition fuse. Plenty of ground places in the trunk. I then mounted my Valentine just to the left of the rear view mirror, up high, where it should be. :wink:

[gserp4sox]

P.S. I originally tried to tap power at the overhead console. For some reason (low voltage?), the detector would cycle on, off, on, off....I finally gave up on it and did the above post.

[RadarmagneT]

P.S. I originally tried to tap power at the overhead console. For some reason (low voltage?), the detector would cycle on, off, on, off....I finally gave up on it and did the above post.

What wires did you tap? mine seems to work fine but could draw less current.

[naperguy]

the wiring harness also snakes down the passengers side door pilar. You can locate the PINK with GREEN stripe there. It's an accessory power wire. All you have to do is locate a ground from there. Very simple. I put my Escort 8500 next to my rearview mirror - easy install.

[milkdud99]

:wink: now that would look priceless....poor guy driving around with his wipers on in the clear of day just to get his radar detector to work :happy: :embarrese

welll.... if they are done right... the only problem would be the wipers not working when u need them... but just rainex every week lol
:wink:

[Racer X]

P.S. I originally tried to tap power at the overhead console. For some reason (low voltage?), the detector would cycle on, off, on, off....I finally gave up on it and did the above post.

Where in the trunk did you find the fuse box? Also how much cable did you need to run?

[Crazy_luck]

Where in the trunk did you find the fuse box? Also how much cable did you need to run?

The fuse box in the trunk is next to the battery which is next to the spare tire.....

[naperguy]

Why are you gonna tap power from the trunk??? Again, the wiring harness is right where you want to put the radar detector. The accessory power wire is the PINK wire with GREEN stripe. It's all right there... Why go to the trunk? :confused: :confused: :rolleyes:

[R/TommyB]

Why are you gonna tap power from the trunk??? Again, the wiring harness is right where you want to put the radar detector. The accessory power wire is the PINK wire with GREEN stripe. It's all right there... Why go to the trunk? :confused: :confused: :rolleyes:

Fear.

[naperguy]

Fear of what ? I did mine that way and it works perfectly. IT IS the same accessory wire that comes from the trunk, so not exactly sure what you fear.... Your just tapping it in closer to your source than trying to fish a wire all the way from the trunk. Hey - if you want to make it an all day project, I guess thats your choice.....

For those of you with "no fear" - The wire is located in the drivers door pilar. Just snap off the trim - it's just on with clips. Open up the cluster of wires and find the PINK with GREEN stripe this is the power wire. Then just find a ground on your car (just about any metal), and booom - your done!! It's about a 2-3 foot run of wire instead of fishing all the way to the trunk. YOUR CHOICE..

[gserp4sox]

Hey naperguy, if I'd known that there was an accessory wire there I would have done it that way. Oh well, it really only took 10-15 minutes to run the wire from the trunk, and now I have power feeds on both sides for future mods! :laugh: Certainly no reason to fear doing it that way. Go for it guys!

[RadarmagneT]

For those of you with "no fear" - The wire is located in the drivers door pilar. Just snap off the trim - it's just on with clips. Open up the cluster of wires and find the PINK with GREEN stripe this is the power wire. Then just find a ground on your car (just about any metal), and booom - your done!! It's about a 2-3 foot run of wire instead of fishing all the way to the trunk. YOUR CHOICE..
again, as my sig tip shows, there is Pink/LG wire in the overhead console... even CLOSER to the RD. The black/LG wire is a ground. Someone mentioned low voltage there, but I haven't had a problem.

[R/TommyB]

You all have some very good designs. The "fear" comment was tongue-in-cheek. No need to get riled up. Its just that general queasiness one gets when messing with a brand new toy, because there is always the off chance you will break/scratch/crack something, and then your new toy won't seem so new anymore. It took me months before I finally felt comfortable enough to modd my last car (which, incidentally, was also my first really nice car).

[Racer X]

Ok, so installed my hardwire for Passport 8500. I got a smartcord hardwire. I used the instruction from http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=11339. I made a slight mod because the passport hardwire comes with a 3M connector that makes it really easy to tap a hot wire. Whole job took about one hour. On a difficultly scale of 1..10 I would say it was about a 5. I mounted the smartcord panel direct under the ignition.

[hickoryrt]

again, as my sig tip shows, there is Pink/LG wire in the overhead console... even CLOSER to the RD. The black/LG wire is a ground. Someone mentioned low voltage there, but I haven't had a problem.

I used that lead for the install of my MITO auto dim mirror/compass. It works great. Even though it is an "always on" circuit, the auto shut off system cuts power automatically after a few minutes of the car being off...

[RadarmagneT]

I used that lead for the install of my MITO auto dim mirror/compass. It works great. Even though it is an "always on" circuit, the auto shut off system cuts power automatically after a few minutes of the car being off...

This is not an "always on" wire, My detector works on accessory. But, this accessory wire will stay on until a door is opened(like the radio), unless you turn that feature off in the personal settings.

[R/TommyB]

I did mine last weekend. I had originally intended on using RadarmagneT's procedure, but I couldn't get enough slack on the wire to feel comfortable when tapping (and eventually soldering) the wires, so I went with Naperguy's location instead. It is the same pair of wires, where they run up the A column on their way to the overhead console.

Funny story - I did my autoheadlights and radar detector in the same day. I had disconnected the battery, so I needed to reset the windows, ESP, and MDS. It was dark by the time I finished, so I headed out to a less-traveled road for the MDS reset. The MDS reset involves stopping, powering down the car, starting, rapidly accelerating in 1st gear to 35 mph, and then coasting to a stop. when I started this procedure, there were headlights behind me, ~1 mile away. By the time I reached the coast step, the car was behind me. This car was a cop, and he turned on his whirlybirds and pulled me over. Turns out he had seen the whole odd procedure, and just wanted to make sure the car was running ok. I held up the procedure print-out, and pointed out the auto-headlight switch (I did NOT mention the radar detector). He commented on the large amount of intelligence in modern cars, asked me if I had the Hemi and how I liked it, and then wished me a good night.

I am incredibly grateful that the procedure called for rapid acceleration to 35mph, and not 85mph!

[CharginHard]

quick question-I want to hard wire my valentine & my phazar radar jammer-so I have the hard wire kit for the valentine,but the jammer just has a cigarette power plug. I have to mod this somehow-but my main concern is hooking them both up to that pink & green wire,will I be blowing fuses?Do u guys think I have enough power reserve there?Not excited to pull down the entire headliner.

[naperguy]

Don't pull the headliner. The same wires are in the passenger side door pillar. It just pop's off. Tap the power there and just tuck the wire in the headliner. I'm just guessing, but would think you have plenty of power on that accessory wire for both.

[Ron Mexico]

I just want to get some encouragement before I dive in and buy a Valentine 1. So do they really work that good? Does it change your driving habits with it on? I have skeptical friends that tell me that you get tickets anyway. I said well you don't have one I'll get the opinion of actual owners... how bout it gentlemen?

[naperguy]

my preference is the Escort 8500 x50.... Actually pretty similar in features. Any of the top 3 are good choices. Escort, Valentine, or Bel. I've had Escorts for many years, and the lastest one is awsome. Check out the radar detector reviews, the Escort won in overall performance....

[RaDaRkInG]

quick question-I want to hard wire my valentine & my phazar radar jammer-so I have the hard wire kit for the valentine,but the jammer just has a cigarette power plug. I have to mod this somehow-but my main concern is hooking them both up to that pink & green wire,will I be blowing fuses?Do u guys think I have enough power reserve there?Not excited to pull down the entire headliner.

Throw the phazer jammer in the trash!!


http://www.1-radar-laser-jammers-detectors.com/support/what-are-scramblers/index.php

http://www.laserjammer.citymax.com/page/page/1124915.htm

http://www.radarjammer.com/index.htm

[Ron Mexico]

my preference is the Escort 8500 x50.... Actually pretty similar in features. Any of the top 3 are good choices. Escort, Valentine, or Bel. I've had Escorts for many years, and the lastest one is awsome. Check out the radar detector reviews, the Escort won in overall performance....

Do you have your x50 mounted in the same place as the install? does it affect how the bottons are?

[RadarmagneT]

I did mine last weekend. I had originally intended on using RadarmagneT's procedure, but I couldn't get enough slack on the wire to feel comfortable when tapping (and eventually soldering) the wires, so I went with Naperguy's location instead.

There is a restraining loop in the harness... if you reach up and unhook the wires there's plenty of room for soldering IMHO. About 8 inches of wire comes out.

[naperguy]

Do you have your x50 mounted in the same place as the install? does it affect how the bottons are?


Yes - It's mounted right next to the rearview mirror. Very "inconspicuous".

[HemiMama]

I just learned last night (while perusing my manual) that the fuse box is not located inside the passenger compartment, so I'm curious how to hardwire my radar detector.

R/Tommy - In case you're still reading this thread, I JUST got done wiring my detector into the power for the uConnect system that runs into the back of the mirror. If you got that option and are interested, it's the two far right pins on the lower of the two molex connectors. Farthest right is positive, I believe. For me, it was about a six inch run from there to the detector. I plan to do it again once I get my SRT-8 in.

[70gt6]

Talking about this on LXforums too. So here is my install. Used the optional SmartCord and mounted the "remote" in the cubby hole above the ashtray. Hard wired to the lighter wires. Very "clean" install and very handy, easy to see day or night, and can quickly reach the mute button :whistle:

[crahm]

Has anyone blown the fuse on a hard wire installation in the overhead console for their radar detector? This is the inline fuse for the Bel unit I purchased.

And to make matters worse, I got popped by a lasar radar on Saturday morning going 83 in a 65. I had the detector on but it never gave me one hint of a lasar in use. I called Bel and they said detecting lasar radar within 1000 yards is very difficult. I will add that the Bel unit V995 I own has saved my bacon more than a dozen times since I bought my Daytona.

[naperguy]

Escort here - the 8500 x50. Mine has always at least gone off when hit by laser. I guess I'm glad I got the Escort....... 1000 yards ? To me that sounds like enough time for warning anyway ---- 10 football fields - thats pretty far at least for laser......

[HemiMama]

Escort here - the 8500 x50. Mine has always at least gone off when hit by laser. I guess I'm glad I got the Escort....... 1000 yards ? To me that sounds like enough time for warning anyway ---- 10 football fields - thats pretty far at least for laser......

Mine goes off when laser is used. It says "laser". I still can't get use to it. I don't care who you are. When the detector goes off and you hear "Laser" you freak. You don't know if you just got pinged or not and when it is laser, chances are your screwed...or you aleast feel that way.

I have had no problems with my hook up but again, it has only be a few days.

[crahm]

Oops, Sorry that should be 1000 feet. The Bel Electronics guy told me that at 1000 feet, the lasar light would be inside a circle on our car with a 4 foot diameter making it sometimes detected by the radar detector.

[R/TommyB]

R/Tommy - In case you're still reading this thread, I JUST got done wiring my detector into the power for the uConnect system that runs into the back of the mirror. If you got that option and are interested, it's the two far right pins on the lower of the two molex connectors. Farthest right is positive, I believe. For me, it was about a six inch run from there to the detector. I plan to do it again once I get my SRT-8 in.

Thanks, but as you can see, two posts up from yours, I'm quoted as saying that I finished my install!

[R/TommyB]

Mine goes off when laser is used. It says "laser". I still can't get use to it. I don't care who you are. When the detector goes off and you hear "Laser" you freak. You don't know if you just got pinged or not and when it is laser, chances are your screwed...or you aleast feel that way.

I have had no problems with my hook up but again, it has only be a few days.

Bingo. Laser detectors are useless, unless your are curious to know the exact moment you get busted. Laser jammers, on the other hand, are promising. Expensive, but promising.

[milkdud99]

now that would look priceless....poor guy driving around with his wipers on in the clear of day just to get his radar detector to work :happy: :embarrese
if its wired from the fuse, he wouldn't need his wipers on to operate the radar detector (as im sure you know but other people might not)

[R&T'sR/Tw/R/TPG]

RTommyB,

I ran a wires from the fuse block in the trunk, thru the back seat, along the rocker panel, up the windshield piller, and along the headliner. No tools required and took 10 minutes, just keep tucking it in. Tap any "on" with ignition fuse. Plenty of ground places in the trunk. I then mounted my Valentine just to the left of the rear view mirror, up high, where it should be. :wink:

I've been trying to figure out a better way to mount my V1, than the current way. Do you have any pics/instructions/parts list of your positioning/install? Also, do you still have full function of your visor? Tia for any help and info you can provide.

[joescat]

You can easily get the ACC power and ground from the overhead console.
Click the "roof RD Power" link in my sig.
please help finish these instructions (more pics, better descriptions)

That's what I did - tapped into power from the overhead. It's switched with accessories, so is very convenient.
And, you can then mount it up high (mine's right next to the mirror). Doesn't obscure vision at all. Only negative, is with visor down, block the view of it's display (and V1's rear detection of laser). I hardly ever need the visor anyway, since the windshield rakes so low as it is.

[joescat]

Some comments in response to several posts . . .

Radar detectors draw a tiny amount of current - you will not blow ANY fuse you tap into. Just about everthing else in your car draws more than a detector.

They may be saying laser is difficult to detect at close range since the LEO's try and target your license plate, then headlights - the two most consistently reflective surfaces. That may be far enough away from your detector to miss it, but I doubt it. The laser beam DOES spread some due to particulates in the air. I think it's 4 to 6 feet per 1000 if I remember right.

Laser jamming is legal, as the signal is light, so is governed by the FDA and not FCC. Blinder makes some decent laser jammers.
Jamming radar is not going to be legal, as you are not going to get a radar frequency transmitting permit in your lifetime. Passive jamming is completely bunk, NEVER works.

It is somewhat myth that a laser detector is useless. I've had my V1 detect laser targeting vehicles ahead of me, so gave me time to react. Not much, but it helped. And, coupled with Veil, might be enough to avoid a ticket. Couple with Veil AND a Blinder brand laser jammer, you've got the best combo. Veil is an anti-reflective coating you place on the favorite targets.

Any detector only converts that signal into a form you can see and/or hear. Period. What you do with that information is up to you. You are not immune in any way, so can only affect your driving due to situational awareness, not changing anyones awareness of YOU.
And, get pulled with the detector visible, and you are more likely to be cited. If you're going to use a detector, USE a detector or put it away. And use a good one - otherwise, you purchase a false sense of security.

And, drive smart, with or without one. There are many techniques that can help give you an edge - follow a fast driver about 1/4 to 1/2 mile behind - let HIM shake out the fuzz. Watch for hiding areas LEO's use. Notice large painted blocks on the road surface - might be aircraft speed enforcement. Got a sunroof? Look up!
Adjust your driving to conditions - blasting 20 over in a congested area only to get pushed to 10 under, repeatedly, isn't going to get you there much faster (but feels better sometimes!). Going 9 over is better than 12 over penalty-wise, so consider a possible citation when choosing your speed.
Don't be the guy that sticks out and attracts attention.
Watch for people "drafting", tailgaiting you to share your detector. When you need to slow down fast, they will make it look much more obvious, and potentially cause danger riding so close.

When you see the cops pulling out to chase you, floor it and run like hell! We've got fast cars, so might be able to outrun the police and avoid a hefty fine. You're probably going to get a ticket anyway.
. . . Ok, just wondering if anyone's still reading this.

[CharginHard]

Finally hard wired my V1 & Phazer II-popped off the passenger A pillar cover tapped into the pink stripped wire & grounded both off them.Used those quick connectors-took about 30 mins total!I just stuck the rest of the slack wires above the headliner.A lot easier then I thought it would be.Will post some pics after the holidays.

[tomfaul]

When you see the cops pulling out to chase you, floor it and run like hell! We've got fast cars, so might be able to outrun the police and avoid a hefty fine. You're probably going to get a ticket anyway.
. . . Ok, just wondering if anyone's still reading this.


LOL
Yeah I read it all. I've been thinking about getting a detector, but I've never had much luck with them in the past. This post clears up a few questions I had about them. Still trying to decide though. I've already been nailed once for speeding in my Charger (73 in a 55) and once for running a red light (that was just stupidity on my part) So those tickets are going to delay the purchase of a detector for a little while, but now I have more time to think about it :)

More pros/cons of detectors would be appreciated.

:rockon:

[RaDaRkInG]

Finally hard wired my V1 & Phazer II-popped off the passenger A pillar cover tapped into the pink stripped wire & grounded both off them.

Go ahead and unplug that Phazer II and put it under your wheel and crush it because it doesn't work.

Nothing by RMR or Rocky Mountin Radar will jam laser or radar and their radar detection sucks.

http://matt.simerson.net/reference/radar-scam.shtml

http://www.radarjammer.com/

http://www.wreg.com/Global/story.asp?s=3508464

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/showthread.php?t=1246356

http://www.1-radar-laser-jammers-detectors.com/support/what-are-scramblers/index.php


Here are some videos of all RMR products not jamming anything:

http://www.laserjammer.citymax.com/f/JammerTests.com_tests_rmrc450_and_Phazer_2.wmv

http://www.laserjammer.citymax.com/page/page/1124915.htm

[MrMorgan]

I found RadarBusters.com (http://www.RadarBusters.com%20) to be a great read on Radar Detectors.

[UA_who]

You can easily get the ACC power and ground from the overhead console.
Click the "roof RD Power" link in my sig.
please help finish these instructions (more pics, better descriptions)

Just got done with my hardwire. Thank you Radarmagnet for the instructions. They were very helpfull. Overall the install wasn't as easy as I had hoped, but I finished it in about 1.5 hours.

[Zandian]

I found RadarBusters.com (http://www.RadarBusters.com%20) to be a great read on Radar Detectors.

Yes, and they recommend the Bel RX65. I've had the escort and solo and don't particularly like the alert display. I like the numbers. I heard really bad things about the phaser and its jamming capabilities. I've read a number of times that it is almost ineffective altogether.

Valentine is rated well, but many falses are reported. Though Bel RX65 is supposed to be so great in its filter, I do seem to still have a number of falses with it. I really like the RX65 otherwise.

Zandian

[RandysWay]

Escort 8500 X50. Hands down. :)

[joescat]

Falses alerts are a very tough topic. Radar is radar - if a door opener or something else is transmitting on the same frequency as police radar, you're going to get false alerts. The more sensitive the detector, the more falses you're going to pick up.

How the detector handles the falses is the primary way of dealing with them. The V1 shows number of sources, and their direction from you. It works. After I first got mine, I quickly learned where the steady sources are - always a certain number and direction on my day-to-day travel. One day, it alerted ONE extra signal, and as I passed the business that has a radar source, one arrow stayed ahead still. V1! It was a local cop, and the V1 picked him out individually out of the radar chatter. THAT is what the V1 is all about.

But, you have to use it as a tool. It takes extra effort to learn where the radar is in your area (I'm sure most people travel the same routes quite a bit), and pay attention to the display when you need to.
If you're driving near a bunch of corn fields, and you pick up one K-band signal ahead of you, it's a completely different scenario than if you're passinga strip mall, and five signals are going off, and quickly change from ahead to side to behind. But, one linger on "ahead" . . . it's time to REALLY pay attention. And, the sensitivity is there so you can pick him up ahead of time.

As far as filtering, I have my V1 set to sharply reduce sensitivity to X band radar, almost always a false around here. It will alert only when it's a strong enough signal to really be a threat. I've also learned in my area, K band is only sometimes a true police source, and wide-K band is always a LEO.

The presentation of the V1's alerts is really what makes it shine. I'm not knocking the other detectors, a few are very good too.

[daytona 27]

I just want to get some encouragement before I dive in and buy a Valentine 1. So do they really work that good? Does it change your driving habits with it on? I have skeptical friends that tell me that you get tickets anyway. I said well you don't have one I'll get the opinion of actual owners... how bout it gentlemen?

I bought the Valentine 1 after a recommendation from a friend with a corvette. He had problems with the Escort. I like the Valentine. So far, no problems. It gives plenty of advance notice. I guess that time will tell, but my corvette-owning friend has years of experience with this, so I valued his opinion.

[Zandian]

The 8500 X50, RX65 pro, and Valentine 1 have all received fantastic reviews. I don't think you can go wrong with any of these three. Here is another link that gives a good showdown between the 3:

http://www.laserveil.com/en/ultimate-radar-detector-review-05/introduction/

[R/TommyB]

Finally hard wired my V1 & Phazer II-popped off the passenger A pillar cover tapped into the pink stripped wire & grounded both off them.Used those quick connectors-took about 30 mins total!I just stuck the rest of the slack wires above the headliner.A lot easier then I thought it would be.Will post some pics after the holidays.

I soldered mine, but I'd like to know more about these quick connectors that you mention, in case I need to redo the job at some point.

[R/TommyB]

LOL
Yeah I read it all. I've been thinking about getting a detector, but I've never had much luck with them in the past. This post clears up a few questions I had about them. Still trying to decide though. I've already been nailed once for speeding in my Charger (73 in a 55) and once for running a red light (that was just stupidity on my part) So those tickets are going to delay the purchase of a detector for a little while, but now I have more time to think about it :)

More pros/cons of detectors would be appreciated.

:rockon:

I felt the same way. I was especially uncomfortable about spending $400 on something that can not save you from laser or VASCAR. I ended up buying a used, older Passport on Ebay for $40. It doesn't have all the bells and whistles that the V1 or Passport 8500 have, but it does the job and does it well. It has saved my ass numerous times, and I was able to use the $360 I saved for other mods at the time (gauge pack, window tint, armrest).

[RaDaRkInG]

I felt the same way. I was especially uncomfortable about spending $400 on something that can not save you from laser or VASCAR. I ended up buying a used, older Passport on Ebay for $40. It doesn't have all the bells and whistles that the V1 or Passport 8500 have, but it does the job and does it well. It has saved my ass numerous times, and I was able to use the $360 I saved for other mods at the time (gauge pack, window tint, armrest).

The Valentine One can save you from laser! By the way, that $40 Passport you picked up for a great price will only detect X and K band, not Ka band or laser or POP radar so good luck with that.

[GO MAN GO 392]

I just learned last night (while perusing my manual) that the fuse box is not located inside the passenger compartment, so I'm curious how to hardwire my radar detector.

Searching these forums found me one link over on the LX forums:
http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=11339

but I'm curious if anyone here has hardwired one in the Charger. MY car also has the smoker's group, which means my cig lighter is always on, so I'd prefer to avoid using that connection if possible.
Im looking for a hot on , on position only wire or fuse. I added a daytime running light and with this car have had a hard time locating one. I may have to go to the fuse box in the trunk. An accessory wire for me will make the light run when in that position. I always wire them so they have no switch and run only in the on key position only so when the engine is running you have daytime running light. My insurance co gives a disount for daytime running lights. ANy ideas let me know. I just am not wanting to go to the trunk to find a curcuit like that . Nothing in the fuse box up front that I would be willing to tie into. ANy ideas let me know GO MAN GO 392

[wquiles]

You can easily get the ACC power and ground from the overhead console.
Click the "roof RD Power" link in my sig.
please help finish these instructions (more pics, better descriptions)
I just used your guide as a start and took a gizillium pictures, showing a step by step how to install a Valentine One. How many pictures can I have in a single post? What's the limit?

http://m3coupe.com/Charger/Valentine/IMG_3370.JPG

Will

[R/TommyB]

The Valentine One can save you from laser! By the way, that $40 Passport you picked up for a great price will only detect X and K band, not Ka band or laser or POP radar so good luck with that.

Um...no, no, no, and no. But good luck trying to make a sale elsewhere!

[wquiles]

Um...no, no, no, and no. But good luck trying to make a sale elsewhere!
I have owned the Valentine One for the last 5-6 years and "has" saved me from laser several times when they fire at the car in front of me. Now, if there is no car in front of me, then I agree 100% with you that nothing will save you from laser ;). I just have been extremely lucky that some poor soul was fixed with laser and gave a second or two to slow down :)

Will

[R/TommyB]

I have owned the Valentine One for the last 5-6 years and "has" saved me from laser several times when they fire at the car in front of me. Now, if there is no car in front of me, then I agree 100% with you that nothing will save you from laser ;). I just have been extremely lucky that some poor soul was fixed with laser and gave a second or two to slow down :)

Will

Agreed, but any radar detector with laser detection will do the same.

[wquiles]

Agreed, but any radar detector with laser detection will do the same.
Yes, you are correct. With laser, there is really nothing unique on the Vallentine One to any other laser detector in my opinion, and with laser you have to have somebody in front of you or else it is worthless (unless you consider "knowing" that you got tagged right before the cops pulls you over) :)

Based on other detectors I have used (or been in cars with), the only thing/feature I like on the V1 are the arrows since they are really helpfull in kowing where the radar gun is located. Still, if you simply slow down a little once "any" radar detector "detects" something, you are being "protected" just as well. In some ways it is more of a marketing thing than a "real" thing, but I like them so I was willing to pay for them ;)

Will

[joescat]

The V1 shows not only direction, but number of sources. It is way more then a marketing thing. It has indeed picked out real LEO's out of the normal door openers and such, many times, and hence saved me a potential ticket. That is, IF you, learn to use it. It works great on your everyday commute, since you can learn the areas you travel in detail. But even in in familar territory, it is very handy to know how many signals there are AND their direction.

You can protect yourself from laser! Bel makes an integrated laser jammer for use in conjunction with one of their detectors, I think Passport has one too. For sure, Blinder makes the best laser jammer.
Also, a product called Veil used on the reflective surfaces LEO's target - license plate and headlights, can cut down the return signal from the laser gun, giving you time to make adjustments before they obtain punch through and clock your speed. A detector is key to this strategy, since you need to know it is happening.

A laser detector can pick up stray signals and alert you before you are actually being measured. I did that with my V1 the week before last. I didn't need to slow down, but it was VERY advantageous knowing they had a speed trap running, and I learned that night my local county now is using laser, something I'd never seen before.

A LEO is going to want to clock you within about 1000' or so. I think there may be some laws requiring that, I'd have to double check my memory on that one. So, he may clock a car in front of you - and, the farther ahead, the better! That give more time for the beam to spread due to particles in the air, etc., resulting in a wider cone and a greater area for your detector to pickup and alert.
Or, they may trigger the gun on a little too early.

In any event, I'd rather know I'd been clocked and by what, rather than just driving blind, and only seeing him as I whiz past.

The V1 has the best laser detection going. It could be misinformation stating that all laser detectors are equal. For one, the V1 has front and rear laser detection. I'm not sure all detectors have that. Secondly, it is the most sensitive, and that might just count when it matters, picking up a stray, weakened signal.

[DODGE THIS]

RTommyB,

I ran a wires from the fuse block in the trunk, thru the back seat, along the rocker panel, up the windshield piller, and along the headliner. No tools required and took 10 minutes, just keep tucking it in. Tap any "on" with ignition fuse. Plenty of ground places in the trunk. I then mounted my Valentine just to the left of the rear view mirror, up high, where it should be. :wink:

GP do u have nay pics?

[DODGE THIS]

The V1 shows not only direction, but number of sources. It is way more then a marketing thing. It has indeed picked out real LEO's out of the normal door openers and such, many times, and hence saved me a potential ticket. That is, IF you, learn to use it. It works great on your everyday commute, since you can learn the areas you travel in detail. But even in in familar territory, it is very handy to know how many signals there are AND their direction.

You can protect yourself from laser! Bel makes an integrated laser jammer for use in conjunction with one of their detectors, I think Passport has one too. For sure, Blinder makes the best laser jammer.
Also, a product called Veil used on the reflective surfaces LEO's target - license plate and headlights, can cut down the return signal from the laser gun, giving you time to make adjustments before they obtain punch through and clock your speed. A detector is key to this strategy, since you need to know it is happening.

A laser detector can pick up stray signals and alert you before you are actually being measured. I did that with my V1 the week before last. I didn't need to slow down, but it was VERY advantageous knowing they had a speed trap running, and I learned that night my local county now is using laser, something I'd never seen before.

A LEO is going to want to clock you within about 1000' or so. I think there may be some laws requiring that, I'd have to double check my memory on that one. So, he may clock a car in front of you - and, the farther ahead, the better! That give more time for the beam to spread due to particles in the air, etc., resulting in a wider cone and a greater area for your detector to pickup and alert.
Or, they may trigger the gun on a little too early.

In any event, I'd rather know I'd been clocked and by what, rather than just driving blind, and only seeing him as I whiz past.

The V1 has the best laser detection going. It could be misinformation stating that all laser detectors are equal. For one, the V1 has front and rear laser detection. I'm not sure all detectors have that. Secondly, it is the most sensitive, and that might just count when it matters, picking up a stray, weakened signal.

Joe is right, V1 is one of the best. I had one of those couple years back and the only other model i found was comparable (as far as saving my ass in tickets) was the BEL 975 R at that time. Now i use the BEL Pro 75, because of the stelath install and the VG-2. also has front and rear laser...
Definitely misleading to say all radr detectors are equal... I had an Escort that detect a thing and i saw the cop from a half mile away..

[wquiles]

Joe is right, V1 is one of the best. I had one of those couple years back and the only other model i found was comparable (as far as saving my ass in tickets) was the BEL 975 R at that time. Now i use the BEL Pro 75, because of the stelath install and the VG-2. also has front and rear laser...
Definitely misleading to say all radr detectors are equal... I had an Escort that detect a thing and i saw the cop from a half mile away..
I think you and Joe are reading too much into my comment above. I don't mean to say that all radar detectors are equal, but that you can get good protection from any of them "if" you are smart and use them properly.

After all, I "do" have a V1 myself, I do feel it is the best, and I am ready to post a lenghtly post with very detailed pictures on how I did my hardware install on my Top Banana. I just respect the opinion of others with opinnions different than myself and I feel other detectors are also good :)

Will

[joescat]

I think you and Joe are reading too much into my comment above. I don't mean to say that all radar detectors are equal, but that you can get good protection from any of them "if" you are smart and use them properly.

Will

Yes, that is the key - you must learn to use a detector. It only transforms the signal into a form you can see/hear. That's all. The rest is up to the user.

I've known too many people that plug in a cheapo detector, and drive around like they are immune. Then, blame the detector for "getting them tickets".

Now, a jammer (laser that is), really can save your butt - but still, only if you act accordingly. And, face, LEO's aren't stupid. With any experience, they will pretty much tell they're being jammed, and they also gain a keen eye on just how fast you're going by just looking at you. Maybe not legally enforcable, but still egging them on.

[Ph1sh]

Yes, and they recommend the Bel RX65. I've had the escort and solo and don't particularly like the alert display. I like the numbers. I heard really bad things about the phaser and its jamming capabilities. I've read a number of times that it is almost ineffective altogether.

Valentine is rated well, but many falses are reported. Though Bel RX65 is supposed to be so great in its filter, I do seem to still have a number of falses with it. I really like the RX65 otherwise.

Zandian

Based on that site I also purchased the bel RX65 and will have it tomorrow. I also bought Veil to go with it - hopefully it will help.

Anyways, on the mounting I have about a 6" strip of dark window tint on my windshield along the top. Will this tint impair the detector in any way, or should I mount it lower?

[starksinc]

so what is the brand that has the laser jammer and radar detector with the stealth install?

[joescat]

I just want to get some encouragement before I dive in and buy a Valentine 1. So do they really work that good? Does it change your driving habits with it on? I have skeptical friends that tell me that you get tickets anyway. I said well you don't have one I'll get the opinion of actual owners... how bout it gentlemen? Yes, they work that good. I've posted this over and over in many threads, do a searchy for "Valentine One" or "radar detector". I too have heard that - from people that plug in a detector, drive like maniacs as if they are now immune, and get popped. A detector only converts the signal(s) it detects to a form we can see and/or hear. Period. It's up to YOU to respond appropriately. Both before, and after you are alerted. Used correctly, a detector can save you legal grief. It can also cause it. A detector will never pull enough power to blow a fuse. They are very low draw devices. I'm not sure about a jammer, but I suspect they don't draw that much either. A cigarette lighter will certainly draw a lot more. It always takes a lot of electricity to directly create heat. A fuse position in the trunk fusebox can be changed to alter whether the cig. lighter outlet is always on, or switched. I tapped the overhead console to mount my detector. I used older style 3M tap-in connectors, and fitting those up there was a tight fit. If I had to do it over again, I'd look into the door pillar to see if there's more room, and / or find smaller tap-in connectors. I had lost my original V1 tap-in power cord, so I raped an old telephone line cord and made my own with that. I ohmed out my cig cord to find which was positive and negative. Now, I only have the few inches of wire necessary to go to the detector.

[wquiles]

A detector only converts the signal(s) it detects to a form we can see and/or hear. Period. It's up to YOU to respond appropriately. Both before, and after you are alerted. Used correctly, a detector can save you legal grief. It can also cause it.
Very well said. The radar detector can only help, but your brain must do the rest ;)A detector will never pull enough power to blow a fuse.
Technically, yes it can. Although remote, if there is a masive failure and a short insude the radar detector ocurrs, then you will blow the fuse for sure. Since once installed (as my DIY guide below show) it is hard to get to the wiring, I would always install a fuse just to be safe ;)I tapped the overhead console to mount my detector. I used older style 3M tap-in connectors, and fitting those up there was a tight fit. If I had to do it over again, I'd look into the door pillar to see if there's more room, and / or find smaller tap-in connectors. I had lost my original V1 tap-in power cord, so I raped an old telephone line cord and made my own with that. I ohmed out my cig cord to find which was positive and negative. Now, I only have the few inches of wire necessary to go to the detector.
Here is my DIY install guide for those who want to do their radar install using the overhead switched power:http://www.chargerforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8571Will

[joescat]

Technically, yes it can (blow a fuse). Although remote, if there is a masive failure and a short insude the radar detector ocurrs, then you will blow the fuse for sure. Since once installed (as my DIY guide below show) it is hard to get to the wiring, I would always install a fuse just to be safe Oh sure, technically anything can blow a fuse if it malfunctions. That's what a fuse is for. That, and to protect from excessive amperage draw. I think the original question was should he be concerned about adding a detector to an existing circuit. Certainly not, a detector will not add to an existing circuit significantly enough to cause worry. Especially a cig. lighter circuit, when they're not using the cig. lighter. I agree, EVERYTHING should be fused! No exceptions! Your wiring doesn't make a very good fuse! It tends to get very, very hot, melt its insulation, and often catches fire before is opens the circuit. I think the original V1 wiring, both cig. lighter cord and hardwire kit, have inline fuses in them already - double protection. That would be concern if one is doing their own wiring and removes the built in fuse. I didn't add a fuse, but of course I tapped into the overhead console, which of course is fused somewhere.

[wquiles]

Technically, yes it can (blow a fuse). Although remote, if there is a masive failure and a short insude the radar detector ocurrs, then you will blow the fuse for sure. Since once installed (as my DIY guide below show) it is hard to get to the wiring, I would always install a fuse just to be safe Oh sure, technically anything can blow a fuse if it malfunctions. That's what a fuse is for. That, and to protect from excessive amperage draw. I think the original question was should he be concerned about adding a detector to an existing circuit. Certainly not, a detector will not add to an existing circuit significantly enough to cause worry. Especially a cig. lighter circuit, when they're not using the cig. lighter. I agree, EVERYTHING should be fused! No exceptions! Your wiring doesn't make a very good fuse! It tends to get very, very hot, melt its insulation, and often catches fire before is opens the circuit. I think the original V1 wiring, both cig. lighter cord and hardwire kit, have inline fuses in them already - double protection. That would be concern if one is doing their own wiring and removes the built in fuse. I didn't add a fuse, but of course I tapped into the overhead console, which of course is fused somewhere.
Good point. The amperage draw from the radar is "relatively" a very light load on the electrical system. On the V1 in particular, at iddle it consumes about 200mA, and when in full alert, all lights ON, volume on max, it goes up to only about 450mA or so - definitely nothing to the system ;)

Will

[kc2kth]

Interesting thread, so I thought I'd throw in my two cents worth. I'm 36 and I've been using radar detectors since I started driving at about 18. I have a V1 I purchased a few years ago to replace something else - a Uniden I believe. Anyhow, about two years ago (I think) I purchased an Escort 8500 X50 for my wife's car.

Both perform very well - much better than that old Uniden or the Cobra Trapshooter Ultra I had before that. You really do get what you pay for in these units. There is a world of difference between the typical retail detectors and the V1 or the X50. I also owned a Bel 980 for a very short time. I returned it after a week due to numerous false alerts (that's when I bought the V1).

Since I consider the basic performance of the X50 and the V1 to be about equal, there are some other features to consider when picking one over the other. The X50 is narrower and blocks less view through the windshield. The V1 has a mount that connects to (roughly) the center of the unit and allows more accurate adjustment of angle. The X50 mount connects at the front of the unit and allows the unit to "bounce" more.

The V1 gives a visual indication of direction (where radar is coming from) and a number indicating the number of radar sources detected. This gives the driver much more information than the X50 does and allows the driver to make a more informed decision about how to respond to the alert.

The V1 is also upgradable. Although I haven't upgraded my unit yet since purchasing it (the POP upgrade is available though), the idea that I can return the unit to the manufacturer to be upgraded to the latest code or board is very cool. The person who recommended the V1 to me did have his unit upgraded once a few years back and was happy with the service and turn around time.

Remember before buying any detector that it's not going to save you from doing something stupid. It is however a good way to obtain more information about the environment you are driving in and that information can help you make better decisions about how to drive. At least that is the way I've always thought of my detectors.

[joescat]

A couple of things to add, in case it helps anyone . . .

I rewired my radar detector today. I wasn't originally happy with the Radio Shack tap-in connectors I used - too bulky. I found better ones at the hardware store. I don't have a brand name, since they were found in the hardware drawers individually. They are a "wrap around" kind, that you plug a spade lug into. Smaller, and allows you to disconnect your wires if needed. These are more like I remember what was included in the Valentine One package.

And, I used those bulky connectors in the overhead console the 1st time - way too crowded, can't really push the overhead quite all the way in.

This time around, I followed Naperguy's tip, and tapped in inside the passenger side A pillar. This is the much preferred location! The cover is ultra easy to remove, there is more room to work in there. Plus, it's not up as high and doesn't have the overhead console always in your way, so it physically easier to work with. Tucking the wire behind the headliner is incredibly easy too.
I did the job using power from from the overhead console the first time, but ended up rather frustrated. The A pillar takes at least 2 points off of the difficulty scale.

-------------
Specific to a Valentine One:
I couldn't find my original hard wiring parts, so pirated a telephone line cord. Each end of a cord like this has the wires in opposite connections. Using the one with the red wire facing towards the front of the V1, the green wire goes to the pink with green stripe (my 2006 Charger has the stripe on the wire). The red wire goes to ground, black with green stripe. I've read that is the way a stock V1 hard wire cable works also.

[wquiles]

Glad the V1 install worked out for you ;)

Will

[gomango2860]

Fear of what ? I did mine that way and it works perfectly. IT IS the same accessory wire that comes from the trunk, so not exactly sure what you fear.... Your just tapping it in closer to your source than trying to fish a wire all the way from the trunk. Hey - if you want to make it an all day project, I guess thats your choice.....

For those of you with "no fear" - The wire is located in the drivers door pilar. Just snap off the trim - it's just on with clips. Open up the cluster of wires and find the PINK with GREEN stripe this is the power wire. Then just find a ground on your car (just about any metal), and booom - your done!! It's about a 2-3 foot run of wire instead of fishing all the way to the trunk. YOUR CHOICE..


Speaking for myself I would rather tap into the fuse box in the trunk. I guess it's because of the cars I've owned in the past. Every older car I've ever had and tried to restore had wiring harness issues from years of different people hacking into the harness. Just seems like if you took a little more time to run one or maybe even two leads from the fuse box you could tap into them any time you needed power and if you take something out or even one day if you go so sell the car you can remove those lines and viola, your harness is untouched and in the same condition it left the factory.

[torred1168]

OK. I am trying to do this today. I have the a-pillar off on the pasenger side. There is no Pink and green wire in there. There is a green wire with a white stripe. I have the sun roof if that matters? I need some guidence from the peeps.
HELLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLp

[Here'sJohnny]

you can change it in EVIC as to whether it's on all the time or how much delay after key off before door open...