Anyone with a 2010 Charger that put in HIDís in the fog lights? [Archive] - Dodge Charger Forums

: Anyone with a 2010 Charger that put in HIDís in the fog lights?


RECONMARINE
12-09-2010, 10:46 AM
I am looking for HIDís for the fog lamps but what I have come up with is that the bulb is a 2504 and DDM tuning does not have anything for that type of bulb. Has anyone installed HIDís in the fog lamps on a 2010? I have PMíed the member who did a wright up on HID installations but no reply yet.
Thanks
Ed

Gunder Armour
12-09-2010, 11:06 AM
Why wouldn't DDM have it? 2504 might be the harness part number, not the bulb.

Most people just buy the 35w H10/9145 SLIM kit as to not melt the housing. You will not need an error canceler.

Am I right--to those who installed them? Why would '10 be different than the '06?

Hmm: http://www.jkowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=28837

hjriveraRT
12-09-2010, 09:05 PM
Why wouldn't DDM have it? 2504 might be the harness part number, not the bulb.

Most people just buy the 35w H10/9145 SLIM kit as to not melt the housing. You will not need an error canceler.

Am I right--to those who installed them? Why would '10 be different than the '06?

Hmm: http://www.jkowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=28837

Hi Gunder, my friend Ed is telling you the truth: the light bulb size code is 2504, you can see it by yourself in the Sylvania website or in this list extracted from the website (the 9145 came until the 2009 models, then the 2010 fogs were changed to a new one):

2010 DODGE Charger (With halogen capsule headlamps)

Low beam headlamp
9006XS
9006XSST SilverStar: The brighter, whiter signal light. Up to 30% brighter light, up to 20% whiter light and up to 10% farther and wider.
9006XSCB Cool Blue: The whiter light for style. Up to 25% brighter light and up to 25% more downroad visibility.

High beam headlamp
9005XS
9005XSST SilverStar: The brighter and whiter light. Up to 35% brighter, up to 30% more downroad visibility and up to 35% more sideroad visibility.
9005XSCB Cool Blue: The whiter light for style. Up to 25% brighter light and up to 25% more downroad visibility.

Parking light
3157A
3157NALL SYLVANIA Long Life miniature bulbs perform twice as long as any standard miniature bulb. Designed for durability, lower maintenance and greater safety.

Front turn signal
3157A
3157NALL SYLVANIA Long Life miniature bulbs perform twice as long as any standard miniature bulb. Designed for durability, lower maintenance and greater safety.

Rear turn signal
3057
3057ST SilverStar: The brighter, whiter signal light. Up to 30% brighter light, up to 20% whiter light and up to 10% farther and wider.
3057LL SYLVANIA Long Life miniature bulbs perform twice as long as any standard miniature bulb. Designed for durability, lower maintenance and greater safety.

Tail light
3057
3057ST SilverStar: The brighter, whiter signal light. Up to 30% brighter light, up to 20% whiter light and up to 10% farther and wider.
3057LL SYLVANIA Long Life miniature bulbs perform twice as long as any standard miniature bulb. Designed for durability, lower maintenance and greater safety.

Stop light
3057
3057ST SilverStar: The brighter, whiter signal light. Up to 30% brighter light, up to 20% whiter light and up to 10% farther and wider.
3057LL SYLVANIA Long Life miniature bulbs perform twice as long as any standard miniature bulb. Designed for durability, lower maintenance and greater safety.

High mount stop light
LED

Fog/Driving light
2504

Any other suggestion to help find a replacement of this 2504 bulb?? Let's see if someone give an answer... I trust that this forum have awesome people and they will find it.

Charger RT 2010
12-09-2010, 09:44 PM
I am looking for HIDís for the fog lamps but what I have come up with is that the bulb is a 2504 and DDM tuning does not have anything for that type of bulb. Has anyone installed HIDís in the fog lamps on a 2010? I have PMíed the member who did a wright up on HID installations but no reply yet.
Thanks
Ed

Hello, I did my fogs on my 2010 RT and I had fun trying to figure out what bulbs the fogs took. They did change the bulbs and harness connector on the 2010 factory fog lights. The closest bulb that will work is an H-16 bulb. It is not an exact fit and requires only slight modification but it does work and fits the fog light receptacle right. You will have to trim the small alignment keys on the side to get it to seat correctly. They do not quite line up with the fog light receptacle without trimming them smooth.

The real trick is getting the harness that DDM Tuning provides with the kit to mate up with the factory fog light connector. I was not able to find a mate to this connector so I took the harness that came with the kit and trimmed it down so the pins would fit into the factory connector. I then took guidline tape (silicone self sealing tape) and wrapped the connector to provide a weather tight seal. I did not want to remove the factory connector in case I ever wanted to go back to the factory bulbs. Modify the DDM tuning harness connector with the male pins. You will have to trim them alittle thinner and trim back the plactic receptacle so they stick out. I removed them from the connector to work on them then reinserted them back in and mated them up. Have not had any problems since I did the mod and it has been about 4 months now.

I wish they did not change the bulbs on the 2010 fog lights. The earlier model fog lights are easy to intall without any modification required. Good luck with the fogs. It is worth the mod and they look great. Hope this helps.

RECONMARINE
12-10-2010, 12:57 PM
Thanks for the responses. I found out that the new bulb according to the manual it is a PSX24W bulb. From what I am able to see on the net the replacement for that bulb in HID is a H3 bulb but Iím not sure about that since the H3 has a pigtail on it. I am going to have to get the bulb out to take a good look at it. I need to call up some places but the 2504 bulb is the number Sylvania gives it. That 2504 bulb according to DDM is not available in HID. If it is an H3 bulb then I can replace it. But I need to make sure before I place my order. I saw on another site that the replacement for the PSX24W is the 5202 so I have conflicting sources. I will get back and post what I find. Charger RT 2010, if all else fails I will go your route and thanks for the response.

Charger RT 2010
12-10-2010, 08:29 PM
Thanks for the responses. I found out that the new bulb according to the manual it is a PSX24W bulb. From what I am able to see on the net the replacement for that bulb in HID is a H3 bulb but Iím not sure about that since the H3 has a pigtail on it. I am going to have to get the bulb out to take a good look at it. I need to call up some places but the 2504 bulb is the number Sylvania gives it. That 2504 bulb according to DDM is not available in HID. If it is an H3 bulb then I can replace it. But I need to make sure before I place my order. I saw on another site that the replacement for the PSX24W is the 5202 so I have conflicting sources. I will get back and post what I find. Charger RT 2010, if all else fails I will go your route and thanks for the response.

You are correct that the bulb is a PSX24W but the H3 bulb will NOT fit the fog light housing on the 2010's. I originally ordered the H3 when I first got my HID kit for my fogs. Found out the hard way they do not fit and had to return them to DDM Tuning and order the H16 bulbs. Under their help section they have a .pdf file that shows all the different bulbs with pictures. The H16 bulb is the correct bulb to fit the 2010 fogs. Only think is like I said before you have to trim off the two little key tabs along the side to get them to seat properly. They were slightly off. I used a small pair of wire cutters to nip them off. Once that was done they fit like a champ.

Order the H16 bulb kit and you will be happy. Other than having to modify the connector mate to the factory connector it was a snap.
I am including a picture of the factory connector you will have to mate the DDM Tuning ballast harness too.
Keep in mind I could not find an exact mate to this connector so I modified the male connector/harness that came with the DDM Tuning H16 bulb kit.

Good luck

RECONMARINE
12-11-2010, 12:30 AM
You are correct that the bulb is a PSX24W but the H3 bulb will NOT fit the fog light housing on the 2010's. I originally ordered the H3 when I first got my HID kit for my fogs. Found out the hard way they do not fit and had to return them to DDM Tuning and order the H16 bulbs. Under their help section they have a .pdf file that shows all the different bulbs with pictures. The H16 bulb is the correct bulb to fit the 2010 fogs. Only think is like I said before you have to trim off the two little key tabs along the side to get them to seat properly. They were slightly off. I used a small pair of wire cutters to nip them off. Once that was done they fit like a champ.

Order the H16 bulb kit and you will be happy. Other than having to modify the connector mate to the factory connector it was a snap.
I am including a picture of the factory connector you will have to mate the DDM Tuning ballast harness too.
Keep in mind I could not find an exact mate to this connector so I modified the male connector/harness that came with the DDM Tuning H16 bulb kit.

Good luck

Thanks. Did you use the relay harness on the low beam replacements and do the fogs require the relay harness as well?

JoeA
12-11-2010, 12:36 AM
Hey, I was curious if there were any HID bulbs that fight the 06 fog light fixtures without having any kits

Charger RT 2010
12-11-2010, 12:05 PM
Thanks. Did you use the relay harness on the low beam replacements and do the fogs require the relay harness as well?

For the lows you will either need a relay harness with capacitor or my recommendation is to use the Error Code Eliminator (ECC) that DDM Tuning sells for about $15.00 for the pair. I used the ECC in mine and a friends installation without any problems. No modifications are needed. I did remove the rubber seal plug that is on the provided wires from DDM.

For the fogs you do not need anything but the bulb kit and ballast and the connector rework as previously mentioned.

Charger RT 2010
12-11-2010, 12:10 PM
Hey, I was curious if there were any HID bulbs that fight the 06 fog light fixtures without having any kits

H10 HID bulbs are what you will need for the 06 factory fog lights. You will need to order the ballasts also. No other parts required. One place to look is DDM Tuning and there are other places. I used DDM and picked the low profile 35 Watt ballasts.

RECONMARINE
12-27-2010, 10:12 AM
You are correct that the bulb is a PSX24W but the H3 bulb will NOT fit the fog light housing on the 2010's. I originally ordered the H3 when I first got my HID kit for my fogs. Found out the hard way they do not fit and had to return them to DDM Tuning and order the H16 bulbs. Under their help section they have a .pdf file that shows all the different bulbs with pictures. The H16 bulb is the correct bulb to fit the 2010 fogs. Only think is like I said before you have to trim off the two little key tabs along the side to get them to seat properly. They were slightly off. I used a small pair of wire cutters to nip them off. Once that was done they fit like a champ.

Order the H16 bulb kit and you will be happy. Other than having to modify the connector mate to the factory connector it was a snap.
I am including a picture of the factory connector you will have to mate the DDM Tuning ballast harness too.
Keep in mind I could not find an exact mate to this connector so I modified the male connector/harness that came with the DDM Tuning H16 bulb kit.

Good luck

I finally got and installed my HID's in the fog lights. Cutting off the 2 little raised pieces worked great. They snapped right in and are snug. On the wires though I went ahead and cut the factory plugs and soldered the wires and it works great. I keep the plugs just in case and managed to put the ballasts right under the headlights. Thanks again for the tip about clipping off those pieces on the bulbs.:bigthumb:

Charger RT 2010
12-27-2010, 01:36 PM
Glad it all worked out for you. Enjoy the new lights.

RECONMARINE
12-29-2010, 10:08 AM
H10 HID bulbs are what you will need for the 06 factory fog lights. You will need to order the ballasts also. No other parts required. One place to look is DDM Tuning and there are other places. I used DDM and picked the low profile 35 Watt ballasts.

Hey Charger RT 2010, I notice that one of my ballasts is making a buzzing noise. Is that normal? When i turn on the Lows then immediately turn on the fogs the fogs do not turn on. I need to wait a few seconds then i push the button and they turn on. Do you have any issues with yours? I called DDM and left a message but wanted to ask you since you have the same setup. Do you turn on your lows then wait a bit before turning on the fogs? That seems to work for me. Makes me think that the lows are charging up and if I turn on the fogs at the same time there is a power issue.

Steady00
12-29-2010, 12:56 PM
I have fogs (H16) and lows (9006) coming from DDM in the mail right now and ordered the ECE's and harness for the lows just in case.

How you hooked them up relative to our reverse polarity, especially the direct connection (without harness) on the ECE's and ballasts for the lows?

Glad it all worked out for you. Enjoy the new lights.

Charger RT 2010
12-29-2010, 01:04 PM
Hey Charger RT 2010, I notice that one of my ballasts is making a buzzing noise. Is that normal? When i turn on the Lows then immediately turn on the fogs the fogs do not turn on. I need to wait a few seconds then i push the button and they turn on. Do you have any issues with yours? I called DDM and left a message but wanted to ask you since you have the same setup. Do you turn on your lows then wait a bit before turning on the fogs? That seems to work for me. Makes me think that the lows are charging up and if I turn on the fogs at the same time there is a power issue.

My ballasts (lows) do make a slight buzzing when I initially turn them on as the lights heat up to full bright. It diminishes once they are at full brightness. Takes a few seconds from an initial first time turn on if they have been sitting for some time off. I do not notice my fogs since the ballasts are hidden in the facia on the bumper main beam. I put my lows on the support brace just under the hood on each end above and behind the lights. Probably why I hear them if I am outside the car when they turn on.

If the HID's have not been turned on in awhile and are cold it takes them a few seconds to get to full brightness. I have not noticed my fogs not coming on immediately if I turn them and the lows on at the same time. The lows do seem to be more sensative to power cycles since the computer controls the voltage to the lows and not the fogs. It seems like my fogs come on faster than my lows when I have the fog light switch on and switch the lights on. Since it has been colder here the low beams tend to not want to cycle on everytime on the first turn on of the car (engine crank) so I wait until I start the engine and let it idle for a few seconds before I turn on the low beams. Seems to be working good in the cold that way. In the summer I had no problems with them coming on every time.
Thinking its the cold temps effecting the voltage that the cold ballasts are drawing on initial startup. I am still monitoring them to see if I can relate that to anything specific. There was another thread on this subject.

Remember first turn on of the day or if they are "cold" it takes a few seconds for the HIDs to warm up to full brightness. They may flicker slightly as they power up but there should not be any flickering once at full brightness. If they have been on for awhile and you turn them off then right back on they should turn on to full bright immediately since the bulb Xenon gas is already heated up to operating temperatures. The brightness of the light is based on the temperature of the gas inside the bulb.

RECONMARINE
12-29-2010, 02:57 PM
My ballasts (lows) do make a slight buzzing when I initially turn them on as the lights heat up to full bright. It diminishes once they are at full brightness. Takes a few seconds from an initial first time turn on if they have been sitting for some time off. I do not notice my fogs since the ballasts are hidden in the facia on the bumper main beam. I put my lows on the support brace just under the hood on each end above and behind the lights. Probably why I hear them if I am outside the car when they turn on.

If the HID's have not been turned on in awhile and are cold it takes them a few seconds to get to full brightness. I have not noticed my fogs not coming on immediately if I turn them and the lows on at the same time. The lows do seem to be more sensative to power cycles since the computer controls the voltage to the lows and not the fogs. It seems like my fogs come on faster than my lows when I have the fog light switch on and switch the lights on. Since it has been colder here the low beams tend to not want to cycle on everytime on the first turn on of the car (engine crank) so I wait until I start the engine and let it idle for a few seconds before I turn on the low beams. Seems to be working good in the cold that way. In the summer I had no problems with them coming on every time.
Thinking its the cold temps effecting the voltage that the cold ballasts are drawing on initial startup. I am still monitoring them to see if I can relate that to anything specific. There was another thread on this subject.

Remember first turn on of the day or if they are "cold" it takes a few seconds for the HIDs to warm up to full brightness. They may flicker slightly as they power up but there should not be any flickering once at full brightness. If they have been on for awhile and you turn them off then right back on they should turn on to full bright immediately since the bulb Xenon gas is already heated up to operating temperatures. The brightness of the light is based on the temperature of the gas inside the bulb.

Thanks for the info. It definitely is not he cold since I now live in Puerto Rico and the coldest I have seen it here is 69 degrees in December at 6:30 AM then it heats up to 80 or so. I will go ahead and check the wiring but since I soldered the wires I do not think that is the issue. What is strange is that only 1 ballast buzzes not the other. Might be a bad ballast in there who knows. Still waiting on DDM to call me back on this issue. When they do I will post their response.

Charger RT 2010
12-29-2010, 09:11 PM
I have fogs (H16) and lows (9006) coming from DDM in the mail right now and ordered the ECE's and harness for the lows just in case.

How you hooked them up relative to our reverse polarity, especially the direct connection (without harness) on the ECE's and ballasts for the lows?


What I did on my Low Beam connections with the DDM Tuning HIDs with ECE's was this:

The Factory harness connector is connected reversed into the ECE (the locking tab on the factory connector opposite the raised pin on the ECE connector housing).
Connect the ECE harness connector to the HID Ballast connector with correct polarity (locking tab on the lock pin).
Connect the HID light bulb wires to the HID Ballast bulb wires.

If you are using 35 Watt ballasts you will not need a wiring harness if you are using ECE's. Its one or the other, not both.

Hope this helps.

Gunder Armour
12-30-2010, 06:41 AM
If you are using 35 Watt ballasts you will not need a wiring harness if you are using ECE's. Its one or the other, not both.

Hope this helps.

I have the 55W kit, so I may need both, plus capacitor.

Once I receive my ECEs on the 4th (DDM takes a long time), I will try them first without my harness AND capacitor. If there are issues, I will re-use my harness with capacitor.

Steady00
12-30-2010, 07:43 AM
Thank you Charger RT 2010

MJB
09-01-2011, 02:27 PM
So would i have to cut these two outside tabs completely ?

RECONMARINE
09-02-2011, 10:03 AM
So would i have to cut these two outside tabs completely ?

HI.
So it looks like you have a 2010. What you need to file down or CUT are the nubs that are on the outside. There are 3 little nubs that stick out. You want you keep the TABS that is what will hold in place the bulb. I used wire snips to remove the nubs and it worked great but you can use whatever you want. Also, it you remove the 3 rivets and peal back the wheel well you will have more room to work with. You can buy push pins at AutoZone to replace the rivets. Another thing it that the factory wire does not match the DDM wire so you either have to file that down to make it fit or do what I did which was cut the ends and solder it. If you have any questions PM me or post them up. I will be glad to walk you through it. Cheers

vash07
11-14-2011, 05:04 PM
Hello, I did my fogs on my 2010 RT and I had fun trying to figure out what bulbs the fogs took. They did change the bulbs and harness connector on the 2010 factory fog lights. The closest bulb that will work is an H-16 bulb. It is not an exact fit and requires only slight modification but it does work and fits the fog light receptacle right. You will have to trim the small alignment keys on the side to get it to seat correctly. They do not quite line up with the fog light receptacle without trimming them smooth.

The real trick is getting the harness that DDM Tuning provides with the kit to mate up with the factory fog light connector. I was not able to find a mate to this connector so I took the harness that came with the kit and trimmed it down so the pins would fit into the factory connector. I then took guidline tape (silicone self sealing tape) and wrapped the connector to provide a weather tight seal. I did not want to remove the factory connector in case I ever wanted to go back to the factory bulbs. Modify the DDM tuning harness connector with the male pins. You will have to trim them alittle thinner and trim back the plactic receptacle so they stick out. I removed them from the connector to work on them then reinserted them back in and mated them up. Have not had any problems since I did the mod and it has been about 4 months now.

I wish they did not change the bulbs on the 2010 fog lights. The earlier model fog lights are easy to intall without any modification required. Good luck with the fogs. It is worth the mod and they look great. Hope this helps.


which are the key tabs that i should cut off?

vash07
11-14-2011, 05:25 PM
is this right?

LIME 108
11-14-2011, 07:56 PM
I installed 9005 HID's in my 2007 Charger driving lamp housings.
Simple job, didn't cut any tabs, you just have to try different tabs to lock them in perfectly in place and you couldn't melt the lenses if you left them on all day. these are 35 watt bulbs, run cooler than incandescent bulbs do. And these puppies really light up the road. I also have 9005 HID's in the low beams, and regular factory bulbs in the high beams, since it takes HID too long to come to full light. No one has ever flashed at me oncoming, cut off line is just fine in standard housings. I bought the HID's with slim ballasts, anti flickering capacitors or resistors in line, and you need to reverse the input power when installing. had then in for 4 years with no problems. I think my brand is Xenarc

RECONMARINE
11-15-2011, 01:17 PM
is this right?

Lime 108. On the 2010 the bulbs changed so the H16 bulb is the correct fit for the 2010 after cutting the nubs NOT the TABS. Vash07, the 2 NUBS on bulb that are close to each other are the ones to remove. They are the top 2 in your pic that you posted. Also you will need to either file down the silver connectors of the HID harness to fit the factory plug or cut the factory plugs altogether and solder the wires together which is the rout I took. After you remove the 2 nubs it fits like a glove in the factory housing. Any questions just ask away.

MJB
11-15-2011, 05:24 PM
Ok i will be doing this next week, so to get this straight you need to file down the two nubs on the top that are close together and not the bottom one? Also what do I need to do to the ddm connector to make it fit with my factory dodge connector ?

Charger RT 2010
11-15-2011, 08:07 PM
Ok i will be doing this next week, so to get this straight you need to file down the two nubs on the top that are close together and not the bottom one? Also what do I need to do to the ddm connector to make it fit with my factory dodge connector ?

I don't remember how many of the small tabs (nubs) I removed when I did mine as I posted before. I used a pair of flush cut wire cutters to remove them off the bulbs. You can file them too, they are soft plastic and come off easy. If you test fit the bulb in the fog light housing you will see which ones need to be trimmed.

The pin modification I did was to pull out two pins out of an un-used connector that came with the DDM kit. I then carefully trimmed them down to allow them to slide into the factory plug female pins. I also took the plastic connector I pulled the pins out of and cut back the plastic shroud enough so when the modified pins are reinserted into the now altered DDM connector they poke out so when you mate it with the factory plug the new plug mates flush against the factory one. I then used the silicone Guideline tape to wrap the two connectors together and make a water tight seal. Most auto parts place should have the tape. It self adheres to itself without adhesive.

Been about a year and not any problems with them. I did not want to cut my factory wires and change the connector so this is what I did.

Good luck.

MJB
11-29-2011, 12:58 PM
Finally finished my HID's just needed to understand the fogs a bit better thanks to reconmarine and Charger RT 2010 for the help. I did go with the soldering option and it turned out great. The after is a crappy angle because it was raining and I was in a rush. Thanks for the help guys, I'm lighting up everything ahead of me now :bigthumb:

backinblack7
01-07-2013, 01:07 PM
I don't mean to resurrect and old thread, but I am having issues with my foglights. Left one works fine, but right one flickers for a second and dies. We replaced ballast and it was doing the same, except in a bit died altogether (no more flickering even). Checked bulb and it looked burnt in the middle. Now got new bulb and the right side doesn't flicker or come on.

Looks like I either need the ECE or relay, but which one should I get? Does each foglight need a relay/ECE?

RECONMARINE
01-07-2013, 01:51 PM
I don't mean to resurrect and old thread, but I am having issues with my foglights. Left one works fine, but right one flickers for a second and dies. We replaced ballast and it was doing the same, except in a bit died altogether (no more flickering even). Checked bulb and it looked burnt in the middle. Now got new bulb and the right side doesn't flicker or come on.

Looks like I either need the ECE or relay, but which one should I get? Does each foglight need a relay/ECE?

I did not use an ECE on the fogs since HAL does not control them. I just used the relay harness from DDM for the fogs.

backinblack7
01-07-2013, 01:58 PM
Only one harness needed? How does the harness even work? What is its function? Does it replace the existing wiring for better quality or something?


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RECONMARINE
01-07-2013, 04:44 PM
Only one harness needed? How does the harness even work? What is its function? Does it replace the existing wiring for better quality or something?


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The harness has 2 plugs so only one is needed. What it does is that it connects to the battery directly and draws the power through the harness instead of the factory wires that can melt and it has a relay and fuse as well. So it does not replace the factory wire but draws current direct from the battery. One of the factory plugs go into the harness so when you turn on the lights it carries the signal so they turn on. I do not recommend wiring HIDs directly to the factory wires. Get a harness from DDM. You do need the ECE for fogs but you do need them for your low beams.

backinblack7
01-07-2013, 04:55 PM
Just to clarify, I don't need ECE for fogs? My lows came with HIDs; just upgrading fogs.

Thanks for the info on the harness. Would I plug both fogs into it for safety, then? You said just one is fine. I am also confused why the wires would melt, given that the HIDs run at lower wattage than fogs, if not same wattage. Lastly, do I have to run the wiring all the way back to trunk battery, or is there a power source everyone typically taps into up front?

Thanks again. This is a huge help. I've been trying to get the fogs to work properly for a few weekends. Also, keep them turned off for now, I assume? The left works just fine.


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RECONMARINE
01-07-2013, 08:18 PM
Just to clarify, I don't need ECE for fogs? My lows came with HIDs; just upgrading fogs.

Thanks for the info on the harness. Would I plug both fogs into it for safety, then? You said just one is fine. I am also confused why the wires would melt, given that the HIDs run at lower wattage than fogs, if not same wattage. Lastly, do I have to run the wiring all the way back to trunk battery, or is there a power source everyone typically taps into up front?

Thanks again. This is a huge help. I've been trying to get the fogs to work properly for a few weekends. Also, keep them turned off for now, I assume? The left works just fine.


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I'm sorry for the confusion. I did not use a harness or ECE for the fogs in my charger. I just soldered then in to the ballasts. My bad and sorry about that, I used a harness on the lows and there is a positive right by the fuse box that you can use for power. Just as a side note even though the HIDs run at lower power when lit they pull a lot at startup. That is why it is recommended to use a harness for the lows or highs.

backinblack7
01-07-2013, 09:02 PM
Hmm... Well my lows work just fine. It came stock. All I did was swap bulbs to match the foglight kit color. Same wattage as OEM lows.

My problem is the fog lights aren't working properly. One used to flicker for a second and shut off. Other one works perfectly. We changed ballast and bulb and the right one doesn't work at all now, not even flickering. We are going to use that electric current tool next to see if the wires got fried?


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RECONMARINE
01-08-2013, 03:13 AM
Hmm... Well my lows work just fine. It came stock. All I did was swap bulbs to match the foglight kit color. Same wattage as OEM lows.

My problem is the fog lights aren't working properly. One used to flicker for a second and shut off. Other one works perfectly. We changed ballast and bulb and the right one doesn't work at all now, not even flickering. We are going to use that electric current tool next to see if the wires got fried?


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That is weird. If you changed ballasts and still the same issue then check the wires. Also, what wattage are you using? 35 or 55?

Martok
01-08-2013, 07:50 PM
It sounds like a relay harness is in your future. I am getting one for my lows because passenger side is unreliable when its cold out. My fogs rarely have problems.

BTW: if you go the relay route you do NOT need to run a wire to the truck. There's a battery terminal in your passenger-side engine bay.

Anyone know: if you have the error cancelers and you decide to put in a relay harness, do you still need the error cancelers or not?