35w v 50/55w HID

[thefever]

I'm looking to try my luck again with HID's. I was running the HIDgate crap, and had no luck with them three times in a row. So now I'm looking at a few different options.

So, is it true that if you run the 55w hid, that it won't jack with our canbus system, and thus not cause the flickering issues as well as the need to have a relay and wiring harness installed? I still have my wiring harness and relay both hooked up right now, but I'm just curious if the 55w are truly a plug and play.

[Wes@Flashtech]

Hey man, its not the bulbs thats your problem, Its the ballest. 90% of HID ballest out there run at 12v, since the Charger is famous for voltage spikes it causes alot of ballest to go bad, thats why you need the wiring harnesses. My company has a 32v ballest which takes care of the voltage issues that these cars have. Our kit does come with a wiring harness still which I do recommend that you use still. You dont have to but it does help. You can PM me for more information and pricing if you would like. As always, our kits are backed by a lifetime warranty!

[SJCHARGER]

I'm looking to try my luck again with HID's. I was running the HIDgate crap, and had no luck with them three times in a row. So now I'm looking at a few different options.

So, is it true that if you run the 55w hid, that it won't jack with our canbus system, and thus not cause the flickering issues as well as the need to have a relay and wiring harness installed? I still have my wiring harness and relay both hooked up right now, but I'm just curious if the 55w are truly a plug and play.

Hey bro, Sorry I didn't get back to your PM you sent. It was late last night when I checked it and I was pretty shot from school and stuff.

I have had my HIdGate kits for about 2 years I wana say, and have not had any issue whats so ever. What were the problems you were having? also I did upgrade from the bulky ballast to the slim credit card sized ones thats about it and they are both from HiDgate....

Let me know if that helps I'll get back to your PM right now.....

[thefever]

I just kept having problem with one bulb or one ballast going out, even with my wiring harness hooked up. I guess what I'm trying to figure out is if the 55w is going to be the better way to go as far as the anti flicker and also having a system that is ready for 55w, that is receiving that much as well.

[thefever]

anyone else got any input?

[Charger06RT]

Before I put HIDs in my car, I was a lurking over at HIDPlanet forums for a long time because I was on the holy quest for a quality HID kit. I really didn't want to buy some crappy kit from China or Korea. I've read quite a few posts and here are a few reoccurring questions and responses I've gathered over time.

Are there differences between the 35w and 55w HID bulbs?
No. They are pretty much the same bulb. (Maybe this is why the 55w kit burns out quicker. :dunno:)

Is the light output for a 55w HID kit different than a 35w HID kit?
Yes and No. You get a little more light output, but the difference is hard to notice.

There are a lot of HID kits on eb@y, which ones are quality and which ones are crap?
There are only a handful of ballast and bulb manufactures in China and they use the same manufacturing process. The ballasts and bulbs that HIDgate sells are pretty much the same ballasts and bulbs that everyone else sells. The difference in price might be warranty related. (You can find genuine Philips HID bulbs that have been rebased to a 9005 on eb@y, but they are crazy expensive. ~$150 per set.)

If you want to try HIDs again, my recommendation is to get the 35w ones and use a relay harness with a properly rated capacitor across the relay coil.

I ended up buying HIDgate HIDs for my headlights and foglights. ***Knocks on wood*** I have had them installed now for 9 months with no issues so far. I have HIDgate relay harnesses for both headlights and fogs. I just dumped the chepo relays (Chinese made) for a Tyco (formerly Bosch) relay. I just didn't trust them.

[thefever]

Really useful information guys. Somewhat what I'm looking for.

However, I still haven't necessarily got the answer to the question I'm really looking for.

Our system is based on 55w, correct? If the preceding is true, then that would mean that running 55w HID's would eliminate the need for any kind of anti flicker harness.

Which is not saying that I don't still need my wiring harness that I STILL have installed, which is one of the ones everyone recommends, and is completely wired up correctly. Although I might take your recommendation and order a TYCO relay and ditch the one that I have already in my harness, and possibly get a new capacitor if it looks like I might need one.

Now, what is the point of exactly having the harness? Can someone give me some numbers and reasons to exactly why I need the harness? Or do I strictly need the harness if I am running 35w HID's? The anti flicker caps were basically built to fool our electrical system so they wouldn't flicker. Is this the same thing the harness is doing?

[thefever]

Bueller.... Bueller...

[wrestlingnrj]

FYI, I've been running the DDM tuning 55w kit in both my lows and fogs for over a year now. The lows had the flickering problem right off the bat so I had to wire up a relay with capacitor to them. No flickering issues what so ever with the fogs by just plugging them into the factory harness (no extra power at all either).

[dejuan7]

You still need a antiflicker device for the 55W to work. IMO they're not that much brighter than 35. Also they wash out the color of the bulbs no matter what color you get they end up looking like 6k. You need to get a relay with a capacitor. And use dyno g's how to wire hids thread. Hope this helps

[thefever]

is the DDM tuning set doing pretty well for you? I saw where they had a lifetime warranty.

[Charger06RT]

Our system is based on 55w, correct? If the preceding is true, then that would mean that running 55w HID's would eliminate the need for any kind of anti flicker harness.

No. When a ballast is first turned on it actually takes a lot of juice to ignite the bulb at first and then the ballast will settle into a more normal voltage range. Just because halogens use 55w of power and a ballast is rated for 55w doesn't mean the ballast behaves the same way.



Now, what is the point of exactly having the harness?

It allows the hid ballast to pull power directly from the battery source of the car. Your headlight switch will switch the relay on and off.

I drew a quick diagram.
http://img526.imageshack.us/img526/6201/clipboard03k.jpg


Can someone give me some numbers and reasons to exactly why I need the harness?

When a ballast first ignites a bulb, it draws a lot of current. Some people say, that extra juice over your
time can ruin your stock wiring.

Also, with a relay you can put a $2 capacitor across the relay coil and it will eliminate the flicker.


Or do I strictly need the harness if I am running 35w HID's?

It doesn't matter. Regardless of whether you have a 35w or a 55w, you should really use a harness. It will protect your vehicles stock wiring.


The anti flicker caps were basically built to fool our electrical system so they wouldn't flicker. Is this the same thing the harness is doing?


You are right about the anti-flicker caps. The harness will power the ballasts from the battery. The capacitor installed across the relay's coil will fool the system.




Here is a link to a great and easy to follow write-up.
http://www.chargerforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=72978

[wrestlingnrj]

is the DDM tuning set doing pretty well for you? I saw where they had a lifetime warranty.

They've been working great for me. Just recently bought another set for my dad's F-350 for his birthday. Fortunately I haven't had to use that warranty at all.

[thefever]

No. When a ballast is first turned on it actually takes a lot of juice to ignite the bulb at first and then the ballast will settle into a more normal voltage range. Just because halogens use 55w of power and a ballast is rated for 55w doesn't mean the ballast behaves the same way.




It allows the hid ballast to pull power directly from the battery source of the car. Your headlight switch will switch the relay on and off.

I drew a quick diagram.
http://img526.imageshack.us/img526/6201/clipboard03k.jpg



When a ballast first ignites a bulb, it draws a lot of current. Some people say, that extra juice over your
time can ruin your stock wiring.

Also, with a relay you can put a $2 capacitor across the relay coil and it will eliminate the flicker.



It doesn't matter. Regardless of whether you have a 35w or a 55w, you should really use a harness. It will protect your vehicles stock wiring.



You are right about the anti-flicker caps. The harness will power the ballasts from the battery. The capacitor installed across the relay's coil will fool the system.




Here is a link to a great and easy to follow write-up.
http://www.chargerforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=72978

Sweet. Great information. Exactly what I was looking for. I will continue to use my harness for a future set up of HID's.
They've been working great for me. Just recently bought another set for my dad's F-350 for his birthday. Fortunately I haven't had to use that warranty at all.

I'll keep that in mind.

[ChargerOn22ss]

I love my 6000k kit from Flashtech! No problems so far! Its the lower volt too