BRIAN-YOUR RIGHT ABOUT THE ZO6's

[sound&security]

HAD a brand new zo6 in the shop today.
fully warmed up-letting it idol and you hear a small piston slap in the motor.
gas it up by 300 rpms and it goes away-let it idol for approx 15-20 seconds and it comes back.
SENT THE CUSTOMER YOUR WAY BY WAY OF CORVETTE FORUMS
I'LL CALL YOU NEXT WEEK ABOUT MY ADDITIVE

[wickedchargerrt]

Piston slap is becoming more and more common i've been seeing over the years. its always been common to dodges and a bit on the ford side too but not as much. Seems the tolerances are getting less and less strict and the error factor is rising. Its all cheaping the system for mass production instead of buidling quality parts anymore.
The only bad thing is , is if he puts in brians stuff which will help the situation so much he might not be able to replicate it for a warranty concern. Maybe they'll throw in a few pistons for him under warranty who knows. ??? he should at least try and then start running brians products instead of the cheap barrel crap he gets at the dealer

[370 HEMI]

Piston slap is becoming more and more common i've been seeing over the years. its always been common to dodges and a bit on the ford side too but not as much. Seems the tolerances are getting less and less strict and the error factor is rising. Its all cheaping the system for mass production instead of buidling quality parts anymore.
The only bad thing is , is if he puts in brians stuff which will help the situation so much he might not be able to replicate it for a warranty concern. Maybe they'll throw in a few pistons for him under warranty who knows. ??? he should at least try and then start running brians products instead of the cheap barrel crap he gets at the dealer

Wicked,

The tech writer at GM High Tech Performance magazine has been aware of the piston slap issues for a lot of GM engines. Imagine paying $80,000+ on an escalade and have it wrapping in the driveway for 10 minutes? Not a good feeling.

I have blended many gallons of oil for the GM and Ford engines as well to stop the piston slap problems. The OEM oils and off the shelf do not address this problem. Our Hemi Motors have some of it as well as the valve and seat area which is addressed by the combination of ACES IV and the QuantumBlue custom blends.

It was nice of the writer to discuss this in the GM High Tech article and that he had us work with him to stop the problem. This was the genesis of the additive packages that resulted in why we can stop the problems with our engines going back about 6 years ago.

Thanks Wicked!:clap:

Brian
440-821-9040 :driving:

[wickedchargerrt]

ya , unfortunately my ex ol lady now has a terrible knocking in her neon. I'm like the neon kingpin around here and my ex is rolling around sounding like a jetta diesel at idle. I believe it to be piston slap too as the old neon 2.0 blocks of the 90's were terrible about it but she's broke and doesnt have enough money for me to get into it right now.
Piston slap goes away at about 3k in most cases that you've seen havent ya brian? thats how we're told to diag it at least. then cancel cylinders to see which one it is by removing ignition while it idles. Shes only got 60k and i need to do a timing belt anyway but hell she hasnt even done a 30k yet. :mad:
If i can get her to use your oil in her car for a bit to see if that elevates the problem do i still need to go back and fix the smashed piston base/bore issue later or will the oil help maybe for good? What if she runs your oil for 20k or so and then runs to jiffy lube one day (which she wont tell me cause she knows i'll kill her but she's done it before) would you expect the noise to start right back up going back to crap dino again?
Sorry steve, not trying to hijack ya

[370 HEMI]

ya , unfortunately my ex ol lady now has a terrible knocking in her neon. I'm like the neon kingpin around here and my ex is rolling around sounding like a jetta diesel at idle. I believe it to be piston slap too as the old neon 2.0 blocks of the 90's were terrible about it but she's broke and doesnt have enough money for me to get into it right now.
Piston slap goes away at about 3k in most cases that you've seen havent ya brian? thats how we're told to diag it at least. then cancel cylinders to see which one it is by removing ignition while it idles.

Yes, that is the easiest and most effective way to diagnose which cylinder(s) do have the issues.

Shes only got 60k and i need to do a timing belt anyway but hell she hasnt even done a 30k yet. :mad:
If i can get her to use your oil in her car for a bit to see if that elevates the problem do i still need to go back and fix the smashed piston base/bore issue later or will the oil help maybe for good?

The piston slap is partly a mechanical issue, and partly a lubricity issue. If we can get a lubricant with high enough heat characteristics to "cushion" the piston skirt and not burn off during 3rd/4th stroke then the sounds will be greatly reduced or even eliminated. I have experienced more that a piston slap is lubricant failure more than mechanical failure. It is just that some engines are more suspectable to it than others. If we can get the lubricants into her car, it will make a big difference while not being mechanic in a bottle etc.

What if she runs your oil for 20k or so and then runs to jiffy lube one day (which she wont tell me cause she knows i'll kill her but she's done it before) would you expect the noise to start right back up going back to crap dino again?

That is what the Tech writer at GM High Tech Performance magazine encountered. He asked me to assist him so I did blend a good mixture for him, and the slap went away. Then he forgot to purchase my oils and put in a typical synthetic and within 100 miles, the sound was back in full force. He then ran 3000 miles and put my oils back into the engine, and after about 100 miles, the slap was gone again. I do believe that it is a lubricant failure more than a mechanical one. Sorry steve, not trying to hijack ya


Hope this answers your questions.

Thanks
Brian
440-821-9040 :driving: