Mobil 1 vs QuantumBlue oils

[370 HEMI]

Obviously people can choose to purchase whatever they want to after all, it is their money.

However, virtually every oil thread you will see me comment because I not only support this forum financially and support the passion for the Charger as I own an 06 SRT8, but because we have a real story to tell and have a much better product offering than anyone else.

This opinion is not because I am full of myself, but rather as a chemist and a physicist, I have spent many years designing tribological materials (extreme lubricants) for Aerospace, Military Hardware, Industrial and commercial applications, and more importantly to most of you........all forms of racing. This includes Drag racing Funny Cars burning Nitromethane, Alcohol Drag Racing, all forms of road racing vehicles including GT2 series Vipers, and any other type of racing including very high performance motorcycles.

With all that being said, I wanted to put out an article that was written in March 2005 from GM High Tech Performance Racing comparing Mobil 1 to QuantumBlue. This was written by a tech writer that writes for not only GM High Tech performance, but Muscle Mustangs and Fords, Drag Racing Monthly, Popular Hotrodding, Stock Car Racing Magazine and 3 other publications all as a technical writer and also an aerospace engineer. David also has the patent on the Poly-Quad Head.

He was very skeptical about us and comparing us to the Mighty Mobil 1. Since many here are fans of this oil, I wanted to give you some empirical evidence of our superiority that does not come from me but a credible aerospace engineer that has published 29 related books.

Remember this 2005. With the standards getting stricter all the time and the oil companies scrambling to meet ever tougher EMISSION STANDARDS as well as MILEAGE STANDARDS they have to put up a good front that these changes they have to make are "better for you" when it isn't totally true on a wear and life of your engine basis.

We blend in our oils to what is best for you and the life of your engine, transmission, differential, powersteering rack, greasable joints and wheelbearings.

All our products are designed from scratch to exceed your toughest applications and each one is done by hand not set to a measly minimum SAE spec.

All our oils exceed API, SAE, and Ilsac specs.

I just thought people should know the truth.

This is from GM High-Tech Performance magazine - March 2005

As David Vizard - an automotive and aerospace engineer that writes for 8 different publications wrote March 2005 in GM High Tech Performance Magazine: (running various performance products on a dyno with a crate Z06 Corvette engine)

"The reason Mobil 1 was used was because of it's proven anti wear properties. By any yardstick it is a top quality oil and my tests have shown that Mobil's ads concerning its anti wear properties fall well short of reality.

This point is being made because the intent was to do an oil analysis wear comparison between the BND QuantumBlue oil and the proven performance of Mobil 1. The lab used here was CTC Analytical (Division of Stavley Labs) (performing a spectrum oil analysis) and without going into a whole load of peripheral details the results showed Quantum Blue cut wear of iron parts by some 30 percent and bearing parts by some 15 percent. (better than Mobil 1 did in the same engine!)

Unlike other oils Quantum Blue is custom blended for each and every customer and with a specific given application in mind. When you get the oil from BND (Automotive LLC) it will have your name right on the container. Like many early LS type engines the 2000 Sierra suffered lifter noise.

The oil BND (Automotive LLC) brewed had an additive package that specifically focused on reducing lifter noise (similar to the HEMI TICK).

At the beginning of the test there was a great deal of skepticism about this but after about 2 months all sign of lifter noise was gone" (he went on to say) " This oil had more than proven its capability as a means of extending engine life--but what was it like for power?

We had an engine on the dyno with an oil good for power but the only Quantum Blue on hand was the 15-45 oil specifically blended for a truck expected to haul 9,000 lbs up a long grade on a 110 degree summer day in the Mojave desert. The thinking here was that if Quantum Blue cut wear by means of friction reduction then this might offset any viscous loss due to being a 15-45 blend versus the 0-30 Mobil blend currently in the sump. Well there was one way to find out so Joe Huneycutt dumped the Mobil oil, changed the filter and refilled the sump with Quantum Blue.

Almost immediately after starting one major factor was apparent: the oil pressure at any given temperature was at least 15 psi higher than with the 0-30 weight oil. All previous tests with the 0-30 weight oil were done with the temperature around 200 degrees F. At that temperature the output with the Quantum Blue was marginally down but running it at 220F (where it still maintained at least +15 psi) the power was virtually the same. These results encouraged the planning of tests on a blend of Quantum Blue done specifically for our Z06 engine."

This is a real credible evaluation as a head to head comparison between Mobil 1 and QuantumBlue from an external source, not from us or Mobil.

Full article here:

http://www.gmhightechperformance.com/tech/0503htp_gm_ls6_Z06_crate_motor_test/index.html



Thanks

Brian
440-821-9040 :bigthumb:

[trudyc]

i might try it but the price is way out of reach for my pay check, i will live with the noise the motor makes and keep driving. i am sure this is a very good product but when it come to money i am sure that the other oils will get us buy. i have used penzoil for 29 yrs and i have never had any trouble out of it, thanks but no thanks

[370 HEMI]

i might try it but the price is way out of reach for my pay check, i will live with the noise the motor makes and keep driving. i am sure this is a very good product but when it come to money i am sure that the other oils will get us buy. i have used penzoil for 29 yrs and i have never had any trouble out of it, thanks but no thanks

We can't be everything to everyone everywhere all the time I agree. I also understand that the price is higher than most other oils. I also understand that people are spending money on Mobil 1 that is in the 7-8 dollar range and changing it at 5000 miles. Their price is cheaper but their cost is more.

13.95 div by 10,000 miles is 1.40 per 1000 miles per quart

7.50 div by 5000 miles is 1.50 per 1000 miles per quart and less protection by 15 to 30%

After all, we didn't buy R/T and SRT8 Chargers for economy.

If it is making noise, it IS wearing. The oils you are usto purchasing to protect your engine is gone and the additive packages are gone with them.

Certain questions shouldn't be asked in life:

Where are the economy parachutes?

Can I use cheaper oils and fuels in my performance car.

We always work with our customers and help them save money.

Old addage still is true......pay me some now or pay a lot later.

Thanks

Brian
440-821-9040 :driving:

[Gladiator]

I agree. 100 bucks for oil plus another $25 to have it changed is more than the oil change I got at the dealer but it will last 10,000 miles which makes it a bargain especially since my engine is better protected. Same goes for the Aces. After buying cheaper gas the price per gallon on the Aces makes it a no brainer.

[charger08srt]

I agree. 100 bucks for oil plus another $25 to have it changed is more than the oil change I got at the dealer but it will last 10,000 miles which makes it a bargain especially since my engine is better protected. Same goes for the Aces. After buying cheaper gas the price per gallon on the Aces makes it a no brainer.

i may switch to the quantum... i pay $110 every 3 months for mobil 1

[NightMare R/T]

Ima hafta bet a case from you man;). 14 qt's for a daily driver but I am kinds heavy on the go pedal( bout 200-225mi to a tank;)) send me a pm with cost shipped to 94585.

[trudyc]

i change mine every 3000 and not having trouble so where is it costing me more for not running your oil. i havent had any trouble with my motor. yes it does tick a little but dont they all that is what i heard. give me a free oil change and i will make the yea or nea on wether to change. i cant see in it making that much differents. just the writing doesnt change my mind. i am sure that it is good oil but 13.00 a quart come on and its that much better

[Grave.Digger]

Quantum Blue sounds like Viagra.


:biggrinjester:

[NightMare R/T]

Mobil 1 is 15$ a qt at the dealer so it's cheaper all around for me.

[Grave.Digger]

$15 a qt?

What kind of oil is that? Or does that factor putting it in too?

[NightMare R/T]

that's just dealer markup on the oil.

[Grave.Digger]

Shoot, I'd bring my own with me then.

[NightMare R/T]

I've only had my oil chainged with mobil 1 once for 125$. Now I'm gonna get a case of bnd and go from their.

[Gladiator]

Nighmare you need to call Brian the first time to have a talk about your driving habits so he can get you the best weight oil for your needs. We are all different which is why the oil comes with your name on it.

[NightMare R/T]

I'm at a bday party but I'll deff work something out with him;)

[wickedchargerrt]

i change mine every 3000 and not having trouble so where is it costing me more for not running your oil. i havent had any trouble with my motor. yes it does tick a little but dont they all that is what i heard. give me a free oil change and i will make the yea or nea on wether to change. i cant see in it making that much differents. just the writing doesnt change my mind. i am sure that it is good oil but 13.00 a quart come on and its that much better

you obviously didnt read the article. If you change your oil 3.1 times every 10k then your spending nearly 3 x what you would with bnd as per the article above.


Seems to me like most people who pay the dealer to do their oil changes could just use a better product and do it themselves and the cost wouldnt be any different. Come on now. Who doesn t have 10 min to do an oil change on their own? I work on cars over 60 hours a week and the last thing i'd ever WANT to do is work on a car outside of that window but i find it perposterous to pay someone labor for something i can do myself, thats almost lazy. Just my opinion.
So pay some 15 year old at jiffy lube 130 to do your oil change with mobil or do it yourself with quantam for however much it is. hmmmmm
Just saying. . .

[infernocharger07]

Question: I just had an oil change and do change it every 3000mi but.....I only drive about 10,000 miles per year, So Is Quantum safe enough to run for 12 Months? At your price my oil changes compared to your price is equivalent to what i pay already without the protection you say the Q offers....but If I only have to do 1 change per year with better Protection that would be great.

[nitecop]

....If it is making noise, it IS wearing. The oils you are usto purchasing to protect your engine is gone and the additive packages are gone with them.
...
Thanks
Brian
440-821-9040 :driving:
Tell us more about this last sentance. (If its your opinion it can't be used against you in court.)
I want to know if mobil 1 I buy today is better than the oils I bought 15 years ago when they put the ZDDP in oils back then.
Doesn't oil need changed once a year no matter how low the miles are?
If you get your business going good with a greater volume of sales can't you get the prices more closer to the mainstream? I don't really want to pay for my name printed on the bottle. I just want good oil at a reasonable price.

[wickedchargerrt]

Tell us more about this last sentance. (If its your opinion it can't be used against you in court.)
I want to know if mobil 1 I buy today is better than the oils I bought 15 years ago when they put the ZDDP in oils back then.
Doesn't oil need changed once a year no matter how low the miles are?
If you get your business going good with a greater volume of sales can't you get the prices more closer to the mainstream? I don't really want to pay for my name printed on the bottle. I just want good oil at a reasonable price.

Well , it didnt happen with lexus :grin:

Knock/tick in most causes is slop in the engine mechanicals. Slop comes from many things but basically its two parts coming away from each other and slamming back into each other.
On a valve spring it may just make noise forever and not really break but its still isnt ideal. On pushrods/rocker/lifter tick is because there is slop in the assembly and something is coming off of something else sand then slapping back down on it. This can create wear points and can damage parts at high rpm.
of course tick can also be detonation or other combustion byproducts without being mechanical slop.

I dont know if anyone has given a definite explanation for hemi tick. I've heard pcv noise, valve spring contact, pushrod/cam contact and on and on. If a definite answer has been given i've missed it.
None the less we do have forum members that have tried it and claimed that the tick is gone/diminished/better. If you cant believe forum buddies , who can ya believe? :grin: Other forum members claims (other than throttle calibrations :mad:) are normally the best reference for me.

[BigBlackRT08]

I'm gonna try Quantum this summer, but right now I'm gonna go Calibrate my throttle!

[370 HEMI]

i may switch to the quantum... i pay $110 every 3 months for mobil 1

Charger08SRT,

When you are ready, give me another call and we can discuss what you will need. Look forward to it.

Thanks

Brian
440-821-9040 :bigthumb:

[370 HEMI]

i change mine every 3000 and not having trouble so where is it costing me more for not running your oil. i havent had any trouble with my motor. yes it does tick a little but dont they all that is what i heard. give me a free oil change and i will make the yea or nea on wether to change. i cant see in it making that much differents. just the writing doesnt change my mind. i am sure that it is good oil but 13.00 a quart come on and its that much better

TrudyC,

Some of this is supposition as I do not know exactly what you are paying for the Penzoil that you stated you were using. Usually 81.66 per 6 pack or 13.61 per quart for the premium synthetic. However with your recoiling on the 13.95, I am assuming more the 25.50 per 6 quarts or 4.246 each quart.

Also assuming you change your filter with the oil every 3000 miles the filter would be at least 4.50 per.

So 4.246 x 7 = 29.73 + 4.50 filter = 34.23 per 3000 miles

3000 x 3.33 = 9990 (10,000 miles)

34.23 x 3 = 102.69 per 10,000 miles

13.95 per quart x 7 = 97.65 + 4.50 filter = 102.15 and is good for 10,000 miles.

So, you are paying about .54 cents more than my oils and working 3 times as hard and getting (according to the article using Mobil 1 not conventional oils like Penzoil) 30% more engine metals and 15% more bearing materials. Generallly a typical synthetic is at least 30% better than a conventional oil.

So if you are going to get regular generic oils designed for anything from a hybrid to a locomotive, not taking into consideration where you live, how you use your car, what rpms you run, and hoping to be ok while keeping the Hemi tick just doesn't seem to make sense here. Our custom blended oils are truely that much better than any store bought from any manufacturer.

Also if you purchase 3 gallons of our oil or more, we drop the price to 12.95 vs 13.95 so there is another 12.00 in savings there.

Just thought you would want to know the numbers.

Thanks

Brian
440-821-9040 :driving:

[370 HEMI]

Shoot, I'd bring my own with me then.

Grave.digger

We can assist you in that endeavor! LMK

Thanks

Brian
440-821-9040 :bigthumb:

[370 HEMI]

Question: I just had an oil change and do change it every 3000mi but.....I only drive about 10,000 miles per year, So Is Quantum safe enough to run for 12 Months? At your price my oil changes compared to your price is equivalent to what i pay already without the protection you say the Q offers....but If I only have to do 1 change per year with better Protection that would be great.

Infernocharger07,

I did an analysis in an earlier post that explained the cost of conventional oil at todays costs and changing it at 3000 miles let alone the synthetic oils.

Your question is a good one and it is exactly why we ask the question of how you use your car. If you do run 10k a year, we can blend for that event so that yes you can run 1 oil change per year. This is why custom blending with application specific materials will ALWAYS out perform generically sae graded oils.

The protection has been proven with oil analysis for many people including many on this form that 10k is safe and possible.

Leaving the cardboard in the garage 3 times longer than normal is good therapy!

Call me and we can discuss.

Thanks

Brian
440-821-9040 :driving:

[370 HEMI]

Tell us more about this last sentance. (If its your opinion it can't be used against you in court.)
I want to know if mobil 1 I buy today is better than the oils I bought 15 years ago when they put the ZDDP in oils back then.
Doesn't oil need changed once a year no matter how low the miles are?
If you get your business going good with a greater volume of sales can't you get the prices more closer to the mainstream? I don't really want to pay for my name printed on the bottle. I just want good oil at a reasonable price.



I want to know if mobil 1 I buy today is better than the oils I bought 15 years ago when they put the ZDDP in oils back then.

The answer is NO. The oils you bought years ago that Mobil made had 1200 to 1500 ppm of Zinc Dialkyl-Dithiophosphate. Today they have zinc dithiophosphate and between 600 and 800 ppm. Our QuantumBlue oils have 1400-2500 ppm of Zinc Dialkyl-Dithiophosphate or Full ZDDP depending on application. The Phosphorous content usto be 2200 to 3000 ppm and now it is between 600-800 ppm. Our QuantumBlue oils have between 2500 and 5400 ppm of phosphorous. Mobil one usto have a total base number or TBN of about 12. Today it is between 8 and 10. Our QuantumBlue is about 14 TBN and contains the correct amounts of Sulfated Ash to mitigate any acids for a very long time. Today Mobil 1 contains Molybdenum Disulfide in the 30 to 50 ppm range. Moly with moisture and sulfur in the fuels create acids that are not good plus Moly tends to drop out and stick in the oil filter and line the bottom of the pan. QuantumBlue contains NO Moly or any sinterable materials. Our process is very involved and each customer gets exactly what they need for their type of protection based on how they use their vehicle.

Doesn't oil need changed once a year no matter how low the miles are?

Not necessarilly. Depends on whether the oils have the right blends of demulsifiers and tackifiers and the right anti-rust, anti-scuff agents to resist any type of moisture buildup from sitting over the winter. If the vehicle is used on a daily basis, then no because you are constantly vaporizing the moisture that accumulates overnight. Back to custom blending for much better results.

If you get your business going good with a greater volume of sales can't you get the prices more closer to the mainstream? I don't really want to pay for my name printed on the bottle. I just want good oil at a reasonable price.

Hopefully you read the earlier posts and saw the costs even compared to conventional oils. However, we are a 24 Million dollar company per year. It is simply that our process is very expensive and very labor intensive to get you an oil that protects the engine 4-6 times longer than any other lubricants made. This is materials that were originally developed for rockets and jet aircraft that we have turned to the performance and industrial/commercial industries. We are saving you much more than you are paying for our products. The name by the way is free.

Call me and we can discuss further.:bigthumb:

Thanks

Brian
440-821-9040

[4DEATER]

I want to know if mobil 1 I buy today is better than the oils I bought 15 years ago when they put the ZDDP in oils back then.

The answer is NO. The oils you bought years ago that Mobil made had 1200 to 1500 ppm of Zinc Dialkyl-Dithiophosphate. Today they have zinc dithiophosphate and between 600 and 800 ppm. Our QuantumBlue oils have 1400-2500 ppm of Zinc Dialkyl-Dithiophosphate or Full ZDDP depending on application. The Phosphorous content usto be 2200 to 3000 ppm and now it is between 600-800 ppm. Our QuantumBlue oils have between 2500 and 5400 ppm of phosphorous. Mobil one usto have a total base number or TBN of about 12. Today it is between 8 and 10. Our QuantumBlue is about 14 TBN and contains the correct amounts of Sulfated Ash to mitigate any acids for a very long time. Today Mobil 1 contains Molybdenum Disulfide in the 30 to 50 ppm range. Moly with moisture and sulfur in the fuels create acids that are not good plus Moly tends to drop out and stick in the oil filter and line the bottom of the pan. QuantumBlue contains NO Moly or any sinterable materials. Our process is very involved and each customer gets exactly what they need for their type of protection based on how they use their vehicle.
As always good info.:clap:

[370 HEMI]

Well , it didnt happen with lexus :grin:

Knock/tick in most causes is slop in the engine mechanicals. Slop comes from many things but basically its two parts coming away from each other and slamming back into each other.
On a valve spring it may just make noise forever and not really break but its still isnt ideal. On pushrods/rocker/lifter tick is because there is slop in the assembly and something is coming off of something else sand then slapping back down on it. This can create wear points and can damage parts at high rpm.
of course tick can also be detonation or other combustion byproducts without being mechanical slop.

I dont know if anyone has given a definite explanation for hemi tick. I've heard pcv noise, valve spring contact, pushrod/cam contact and on and on. If a definite answer has been given i've missed it.
None the less we do have forum members that have tried it and claimed that the tick is gone/diminished/better. If you cant believe forum buddies , who can ya believe? :grin: Other forum members claims (other than throttle calibrations :mad:) are normally the best reference for me.

Wicked,

From what we have determined and blended for...it is partially the exhaust valves and rocker assemblies. The valves as you know have no lubricity or cushioning between the valve face and the valve seat especially on the exhaust side. Also no lubricity in the lower stem. This is where the ACES IV comes into play as it products upper cylinder lubricity on valve stems, guides, valve seats and faces. This quieting is also partly accomplished by the lubricity and topside down lubricity created by the ACES IV on the piston rings and top bores.

The other parts like the rocker assemblies we know have scuffing issues and is something that I have discussed with PPP several times. The other portion of the tick is from the very slight slap of the piston skirt on the lower bore area that under heat looses its cushioning due to high flame front heat and oil basestock volatility turning into vapor and losing filmstrength. Since our oils have a much much higher vapor threshold and can withstand any temperatures that the engines can create causes the skirt to stay quiet and keeps the hydrodynamic seal from the oil control and lower compression ring intact.

These two together produce such a good combination that the inadequacies of lubricants that people purchase from the store shelves is cleaned and dissolved and removed with our blends.

The engines are designed much better than the traditional store bought oils can keep up with. The engineers create designs that produce massive amounts of heat in a smaller package and then try to get a lubricant that is not 40.00 per quart to keep them alive.

This is where we come in as we produce what these engines need and are cost effective in comparison.

This is what we have determined based on research with several 5.7's and 6.1s. This is at least the parts that we address to stop the annoying sounds that these engines create.

Hope this helps explain what we have determined.

Thanks

Brian:driving:

[wickedchargerrt]

So in you and ppp's opinions the "tick" is moreso from the exhaust side valves seating and unseating against the heads during use.
From my experience this could be the case. I know the noise seems to resonate both into the intake and the exhaust manifolds, its moreso on the 5.7 then 6.1, but more pronounced to my stethoscope in the exhaust manifolds. Now the 5.7 over 6.1 factor may be because the difference in manifold design dampens it from my stethoscope a little more or the fact that the lower compression or mds lifters/tappets are different which is why its more pronounced. I don't know. I'm not a engine guy perse. I do believe it to be engine mechanical as stated and not a "detonation" type noise as i have a ton of experience in that area of automobiles and nothing leads me to that conclusion
(example for others: a good way i check tick/ping is it normally happens moreso under load <worse with throttle less without> and if you unplug the coil on the suspected cylinder <thus taking away ignition> if the noise is still there it cant be pinging)

Another thing that would back your theory up, is most people do tend to get a little louder with cams. Not just for the common reasons you see on most cars but the hemi , in my opinion , 5.7 wise, may be accelerating that noise with extreme lobe profiles on the cam slamming and opening those valves at an accelerated pace compared to the o.e. cam.

Question though: Why would the exhaust side be less lubricated than the intake side? Is it solely because the inert gasses from the motor are burning the lubricity of that area on discharge?

[infernocharger07]

Infernocharger07,

I did an analysis in an earlier post that explained the cost of conventional oil at todays costs and changing it at 3000 miles let alone the synthetic oils.

Your question is a good one and it is exactly why we ask the question of how you use your car. If you do run 10k a year, we can blend for that event so that yes you can run 1 oil change per year. This is why custom blending with application specific materials will ALWAYS out perform generically sae graded oils.

The protection has been proven with oil analysis for many people including many on this form that 10k is safe and possible.

Leaving the cardboard in the garage 3 times longer than normal is good therapy!

Call me and we can discuss.

Thanks

Brian
440-821-9040 :driving:

Wow Sounds Great! I will Definitely Be giving you A call 1500 more miles from now!

Also for me and others you would also figure savings in the gas and time of having to go to our trusted shops that people travel to 2 times less(unless u do it yourself)..... I Don't just trust anyone to do my oil changes, so I know some people make that longer drive to a local dealer or out of the way to get away from those rink a dink shops, not to mention the time you spend waiting.

Thx Brian,
M

P.S. When I order I may have to try out that ACES too!

[370 HEMI]

So in you and ppp's opinions the "tick" is moreso from the exhaust side valves seating and unseating against the heads during use.
From my experience this could be the case. I know the noise seems to resonate both into the intake and the exhaust manifolds, its moreso on the 5.7 then 6.1, but more pronounced to my stethoscope in the exhaust manifolds. Now the 5.7 over 6.1 factor may be because the difference in manifold design dampens it from my stethoscope a little more or the fact that the lower compression or mds lifters/tappets are different which is why its more pronounced. I don't know. I'm not a engine guy perse. I do believe it to be engine mechanical as stated and not a "detonation" type noise as i have a ton of experience in that area of automobiles and nothing leads me to that conclusion
(example for others: a good way i check tick/ping is it normally happens moreso under load <worse with throttle less without> and if you unplug the coil on the suspected cylinder <thus taking away ignition> if the noise is still there it cant be pinging)

Another thing that would back your theory up, is most people do tend to get a little louder with cams. Not just for the common reasons you see on most cars but the hemi , in my opinion , 5.7 wise, may be accelerating that noise with extreme lobe profiles on the cam slamming and opening those valves at an accelerated pace compared to the o.e. cam.

Question though: Why would the exhaust side be less lubricated than the intake side? Is it solely because the inert gasses from the motor are burning the lubricity of that area on discharge?

Wicked,

You have come to the same conclusions we have here. Partially the oil side with the piston and flame front, and partially in the upper cylinder.

The reason for the exhaust side is because up until combustion, the fuel has a cooling effect and is also "wet" around the valve area. When the 3rd to 4th stroke takes place, that is where the flame kernal, pressure wave, and flame travel burns the cylinder and all the wet fuel and leaves hot carbon(which is abrasive) and no lubricity. Our ACES IV produces lubricant as a reaction to heat. Therefore you get a cooling/wet lubricant to lubricate piston rings, bores, valve stems, guides and cushion valve seats and valve faces. Our lubricity is like a synthetic lead substitute. So valve and stem wear go down 360+% and that part of the noise is eliminated. The bore wear upper chamber is reduced where ring ridge normally occurs to virtually zero ridge over many hundreds of thousands of miles.

QuantumBlue special blend + ACES IV makes a HUGE difference in how the engine lives and works.

Thanks

Brian:bigthumb:

[TBYDaytona40]

I run, and have alwayhs run, my mobil one oils for 10K between oil changes.
QB may be better, but you cannot ever expect it to be cheaper. It just isn't.

[Gladiator]

Better is hardly ever cheaper.

[TBYDaytona40]

Agreed, but when I see math formulas trying to show that it is cheaper, I just scoff.

[infernocharger07]

Better is hardly ever cheaper.

X2....... You can always hear the people who pay for the 19.99 Jiffy Lube special, criticizing people who would even pay for Mobil 1 !

[infernocharger07]

Agreed, but when I see math formulas trying to show that it is cheaper, I just scoff.

I do agree there since mobil 1 does make an extended performance oil that is suppose to last 15,000 or 1 year, guaranteed.

[370 HEMI]

Wow Sounds Great! I will Definitely Be giving you A call 1500 more miles from now!

Also for me and others you would also figure savings in the gas and time of having to go to our trusted shops that people travel to 2 times less(unless u do it yourself)..... I Don't just trust anyone to do my oil changes, so I know some people make that longer drive to a local dealer or out of the way to get away from those rink a dink shops, not to mention the time you spend waiting.

Thx Brian,
M

P.S. When I order I may have to try out that ACES too!

infernocharger07,

First, thank you for the confidence and am looking forward to working with you when you are ready.

On the other issue, it is kind of hard to quantify exactly what the expense is but assuming that most dealerships charge extra for the Charger/300/Magnum etc because of the belly pan and the 2 extra quarts of oil, the average I was able to determine is about 59.95 to 68.50. So assuming the lower of 59.95 x even 5000 miles is still 119.90 and that is with traditional lubricants. If 3000 miles, then it becomes even more expensive @ 179.85.

Forget what your time is worth at 35.00 per hour and you can add 3 hours to the wait side of the equation. So 179.85 + 105.00 for time and you get 284.85 for an oil change every 3000 miles from the dealership to get your oil changed while you wear your engine out 4-6 times faster than with our lubricants. Just doesn't make sense. Now Gladiator said it best, when he takes our oil to the local Spiffy Jiffy co and gives them the oil, watches to make sure that they shake it up and then pour it in and gives them 20.00 on top of it and is good for 10K, that is saving time and money.

Hope this addresses your question effectively.

Regards,

Brian
440-821-9040 :bigthumb:

[370 HEMI]

I do agree there since mobil 1 does make an extended performance oil that is suppose to last 15,000 or 1 year, guaranteed.

Mobil's guarantee is well........... very interesting........guaranteed!

Do these oils affect car warranties? If an owner’s manual recommends oil changes at 4,000 miles, will the car warranty still be in effect if I use Mobil Clean 7500?

Since the Mobil High Endurance Motor Oils exceed industry and car builder requirements, drivers can rest assured that their engine is well protected. As long as drivers follow the oil-change-interval guidelines set forth in their owner’s manuals, they won’t have to worry about voiding their warranties.

ExxonMobil stands behind the performance of its products. Per the guarantee listed on the back of the bottle, if a vehicle should suffer a lubricant-related problem while using Mobil Clean 7500, we will provide reimbursement for required repairs.

But then on the same part of their questions and answers page:

Upon what driving conditions are these performance claims based? Normal or severe driving conditions?

These claims relate to all typical consumer driving conditions, excluding those mentioned below. In other words, if you drive under normal conditions and use Mobil 1 Extended Performance in your vehicle, the oil is guaranteed to protect your engine for 15,000 miles. We also recommend that drivers consult their owner’s manual while their vehicle is under warranty, and follow the guidelines set forth there. Additionally, we recommend that if consumers drive routinely in severe conditions that they follow the oil change interval recommended in their owner's manual for severe conditions. We define "severe conditions" as:

racing or commercial applications;

frequent towing or hauling;

extremely dusty or dirty conditions; or

excessive idling.


The point is that if you did use their oils, and you did have a failure, the questions would come out of the woodwork like being asked very quickly.........did you operate it in - racing, or dusty or commercial or excessive idling.

Well, then you need to look at your manual and follow the recommended change interval there. You went over it etc etc etc. Sucks to be you.

We make no claims of warranty but instead offer real world scientific proof from outside our company to professional oil analysis companies to show in any condition what our oils will do.

Make up your own minds, but be careful what you read from company websites or on the bottle. False sense of security here.

Thanks

Brian
440-821-9040 :bigthumb:

[Gladiator]

I agree Brian. My time is valuable. I can change my own oil or take it into the dealer but going to a Jiffy Lube where I can BS with the guys doing it and watch them do it in ten minutes just makes sense. The dealer won't let me in the service bay. I trust the guys at Jiffy Lube where I can watch them pour in the QB. At the dealer how do I know what they are actually pouring in there? Also guys keep in mind an SRT oil change is more expensive and the recommended change is about 5000 miles. So the $109 my dealer charges me per 5000 miles equals out to $218 plus about six hours of my time plus I don't trust those a$$ hats after some of the screwy stuff they did to me last fall. One use of QB and a trip to the JL is like $130. Brian basically just cut me a check for $88 before lost time. Thanks man.

[Gladiator]

Excessive idling? What does that mean? So if I ever sit in traffic or sit with my car on in the winter to keep warm that is excessive? No thanks. I'm good.

[infernocharger07]

Luckily one dodge dealer here in San Antonio has a quick lube bay but the drive is too far... and the cost is too much.......I always take it to my brother but they can take almost 2 hours at times since they are not a quick lube.....My time is very Important to me the amount of hours I work!!

And yes Brian I look forward to My Purchase within the next 2 mo. From you.

[370 HEMI]

I agree Brian. My time is valuable. I can change my own oil or take it into the dealer but going to a Jiffy Lube where I can BS with the guys doing it and watch them do it in ten minutes just makes sense. The dealer won't let me in the service bay. I trust the guys at Jiffy Lube where I can watch them pour in the QB. At the dealer how do I know what they are actually pouring in there? Also guys keep in mind an SRT oil change is more expensive and the recommended change is about 5000 miles. So the $109 my dealer charges me per 5000 miles equals out to $218 plus about six hours of my time plus I don't trust those a$$ hats after some of the screwy stuff they did to me last fall. One use of QB and a trip to the JL is like $130. Brian basically just cut me a check for $88 before lost time. Thanks man.

Gladiator,

Great to hear we are assisting you and saving you money......and your welcome!

Brian
440-821-9040 :beerchug:

[Ujokin2]

Brian,

For those of us that REGULARLY change our OIL every 3K and check our OIL every time we go to the track. I change my oil more frequently because I consider tracking the car SEVERE conditions. My Oil changes cost $10.00 plus the cost of 7 qts of Mobil 1 and filter. Also dealership changes my oil but then again I buy my own Mobil 1.

So the question becomes with your QuantumBlue I may be able to actually go longer inbetween changes even under severe conditions which I subject my engine too?

[TBYDaytona40]

Considering the severe conditions you are running, I would not go longer in between changes.

[370 HEMI]

Brian,

For those of us that REGULARLY change our OIL every 3K and check our OIL every time we go to the track. I change my oil more frequently because I consider tracking the car SEVERE conditions. My Oil changes cost $10.00 plus the cost of 7 qts of Mobil 1 and filter. Also dealership changes my oil but then again I buy my own Mobil 1.

So the question becomes with your QuantumBlue I may be able to actually go longer inbetween changes even under severe conditions which I subject my engine too?

Ujokin2,

I get that most racers like to change their oils to make sure that they are not depleting the additive package and having washdown that could emulsify the oil and spin a bearing.

This is why application specific oils are so extremely important. Since I know you are working with Methanol injection, racing fuels, and pump gas and ACES IV already, I would just blend it differently with much heavier and more durable additive packages that would withstand the rigors of your racing events. We would just have to discuss how long and how often we would want a drain interval and then cross check with some oil samples. This would give us the read we need to get the exact formula.

Very over engineered oils is what you would need with the combination you are running, which we can provide you.

Call me Monday and we can discuss.

Thanks

Brian
440-821-9040 :driving:

[370 HEMI]

I run, and have alwayhs run, my mobil one oils for 10K between oil changes.
QB may be better, but you cannot ever expect it to be cheaper. It just isn't.

TBYDaytona40

I understand on the cheaper. I gave a SWAG method to try to compare as I wasn't given any numbers to compare with.

The point is that even if it is the same price, having better protection and a blended to application mix, taking the best care of our cars is what we all want to do. If the price is comparable or even a little more, it is a no brainer.

Thanks

Brian
440-821-9040 :banana:

[wickedchargerrt]

Excessive idling? What does that mean? So if I ever sit in traffic or sit with my car on in the winter to keep warm that is excessive? No thanks. I'm good.

Excessive idling is in the case of police package and border patrol. Vehicles that run 24/7 and spend many hours just sitting still. this doesnt allow the cats to cool from air flow going under the vehicle and they get severly hot (including melting the floor boards on some old crown vics). Sitting at a traffic light or hanging with the homies in the parking lot with the stereo going is not a big deal

[NightMare R/T]

Wickid you have homies???


J/k

[georgiaslim45]

Brian you are definitely on your "A" game. I will be calling you the end of this week or next week. Also, Brian for some folks that are skeptical do you think it will be worthwhile if they tried QB for six months then mobil 1 or whatever oil they used to compare?

[370 HEMI]

[QUOTE=georgiaslim45;1741716]Brian you are definitely on your "A" game. I will be calling you the end of this week or next week. Also, Brian for some folks that are skeptical do you think it will be worthwhile if they tried QB for six months then mobil 1 or whatever oil they used to compare?
QUOTE]

Brian you are definitely on your "A" game. I will be calling you the end of this week or next week.

Well thank you for the kind words. I just have a passion for helping people save their cars, save their money, utilize the expertise that I have gained over 29 years and frankly make a small profit at the same time.

Brian for some folks that are skeptical do you think it will be worthwhile if they tried QB for six months then mobil 1 or whatever oil they used to compare?


I guess it would make sense from my point of view that they see how long it takes for their oil to turn black, see what their engine operating temperatures are, see how "wet" their PCV valves are, listen to their engines and how they sound, see the smoothness of their engines and how they run and then do an oil analysis for a baseline. After that time, order our QuantumBlue oils that are custom blended for them and the applications that they use their cars with and then simply compare the same things.

In the end, I believe that if they are honest with themselves, our oils will perform better, longer and run smoother than anything else they have ever used before. The oil analysis will bare out that we have less wear, less soot, more additive package left at longer drain intervals.

Thanks again!

Brian
440-821-9040 :beerchug:

[georgiaslim45]

thanks for the insight Brian.

[370 HEMI]

thanks for the insight Brian.

I am glad to be of service. The more people know and understand the custom blending process, the more they can make an informed decision.

Thanks

Brian
440-821-9040 :bigthumb:

[superbee555]

All my fluids were changed to QB products custom blended for my application last week; my car is getting prepped for circuit racing, (typical track day consist of five 30 min sessions with rpm always around red line, high speeds with rapid decelerations).
I think if anyone is going to give this product a run for its money it’s me.
I plan on getting an oil analysis around the end of July; at that point I will have five track days on the car, and approximately 10 to 12 hours of balls to the walls driving on the “Lube from the Gods”

Stay tuned for more info.

P.S. Brian

The guys at Modern Muscle said the coolant smelled like cherry, that’s not a throw back from the early 70 when you put “Pimp Oil” in your antifreeze to give your car a sweet smell.

[370 HEMI]

All my fluids were changed to QB products custom blended for my application last week; my car is getting prepped for circuit racing, (typical track day consist of five 30 min sessions with rpm always around red line, high speeds with rapid decelerations).
I think if anyone is going to give this product a run for its money it’s me.
I plan on getting an oil analysis around the end of July; at that point I will have five track days on the car, and approximately 10 to 12 hours of balls to the walls driving on the “Lube from the Gods”

Stay tuned for more info.

P.S. Brian

The guys at Modern Muscle said the coolant smelled like cherry, that’s not a throw back from the early 70 when you put “Pimp Oil” in your antifreeze to give your car a sweet smell.

Superbee555,

Great to hear that they are getting the oils and coolant into the car for your racing. Don't get the cherry smell as I didn't add anything other than I know the way it will work is "sweet".

Anyway, the tubes of ACES Ultimate Grease EP-2...The Best Grease on the Planet....(hey, it's on the label!) should be there by Thursday.

Thanks again for the confidence!

Regards,

Brian
440-821-9040 :driving: